I woke at dawn in Tapachula, Chiapas, MX after sleeping somewhat fitfully worried about crossing the border into Guatemala. Got the bike out of the hotel and drove to the secondary (but closer) crossing of Talisman all the while pondering how different it might be in Guatemala. When I arrived near the border bridge a swarm of semi-official plaque holding young men started yelling and directing me down a road that went into the settlement next to the border. I stupidly listened to them and was accosted then by a horde of money changers, one of whom I almost knocked over with my side cases because he was so annoyingly persistent and wouldn’t get out of my way.
At the actual Mexican exit/entry point another horde was trying to tell me where to park, I ignored them and parked in the middle of the bridge and went and got my Mexican import vehicle permit canceled and went across the bridge to be swarmed by Guatemalan ‘park-here’, ‘stop-here’, ‘change-money’ boys. Tired of this I ignored them or made somewhat rude comments in Spanish and got my immigration entry. Next stop was fumigation of my vehicle (which involved spraying it with some chemicals), a sarcastic thanks was offered – which was taken in good humour. Then to the customs for an import permit for Guatemala, (with trips to the copy shop at each stage), then to the bank to pay and back to the customs with receipt. Then finally inspection of everything and allowed through. Recommendations to anyone doing this, cross at Talisman and ignore everyone except the money changers as you’ll need Quetzals – it took about 1 hour in total at 8am.
I decided to take the mountainous route to my destination Quetzaltenango (Xela) so headed up through the lush volcanic mountains towards the first town San Marcos. I was happily on my way when the traffic stopped and was backed up. I drove up the wrong lane to see if I could get through and came upon a crowd on either end of a bridge. By one side of the bridge was a dead man still half straddling his motorcycle with police dropping numbered cones all over the place. Then the mother and sister/wife appeared through the crowd at the other end of the bridge and started wailing and yelling out. They pushing past the police who were trying to stop them and when they caught sight of the body the mother cried out ‘mi hijo’ (‘my son’), distraught they walked in circles crying and yelling. The sister/wife jumped on the body and was pulled off by the police.
A grinning man in a red Toyota van then told me to follow him to get to San Marcos. I could barely keep up speeding through little towns and blind mountain corners. I was sobered by the sight of the dead man five minutes before and felt like I was in a death race following this van, so I was a little relieved when it stopped and he hopped out with some directions for me to continue on my own.







Would be happy to have one of those parrakeets . Is bike engine OK ? Is fuse always for same equipment ?
Three sisters photo very nice . Many of these people look …..decent…. (compared with our rat race society anyway ) . More detail on wailing Christians would be enjoyed .
Do you recognise this allusion : ‘In the prime of his southern metropolitan Xtian manhood ‘ . ?
Take care .
Bike engine is fine I think – it needs a new cam chain apparently, mechanic said it was loose. I’ve ordered one that Kai will hopefully get in time to bring and may I can get it in the bike in Panama City or Cartagena…
re: Xtian manhood
Afraid I had to look it up :)
Augustus Carp Esquire, by Himself: Being the Autobiography of a Really Good Man (Prion Humour Classics) (Hardcover) turned up on Amazon