After the mechanic in Santa Elena who was to work on the bike was drunk on the appointed day, I took my bike on the back of a not quite long enough pickup truck back to Puerto Escondido to the official Yamaha mechanic – Mario (just past the Crucero near the ADO bus station). Mario while being funny, competent and honest changed the spark plug (yes, that is all that was stopping it from running) and did a fairly complete service on the bike – while pointing out that I had brought him a part that didn’t even belong to my model of bike.
So I drove down highway 200 yet again and this time managed to pass Santa Elena without resorting to taking a bus. The highway wound through the humid jungle with occasional sea views. As Mario had pointed out, my front brake pad was dissipated such that I was grinding metal on metal while stopping. So I stopped at the Kawasaki shop in the purpose-built resort town of Huatulco looking for a new pad. They looked at the bike and produced various completely different pads shapes and sizes.
I continued down the highway and was tempted by the view of the sea and drove down a gravel road, through a village, and came to the sea. It was a windy sand-swept hot plain of a beach with sand encroaching the surrounding hills. The landscape was dry, inhospitable and surreal with a group of fishermen sitting in the boat on the beach with sand blowing past them.
A further 60 kms and I was in the hot bustling windy town of Salina Cruz, a port and refinery. A visit to Yamaha, Honda, and sundry automotive parts shops lead to one man who interrupted his lunch to get on the back of my bike to direct me to an old man with BMW’s and MotoGuzzi’s in his house/shop. He removed the brake shoes and the first fellow and I set off to a basement dwelling brake man. The brake man took one hour to put new brake pad material on the shoes while I drank some offered mezcal. $100 pesos paid to him and I returned to the old man who put the shoes back on the brake disc and refused payment for his 1/2 hour of messing about with my bike problems.
PS. The Garmin GPS other possible power input connector (USB) broke before I left Puerto Escondido, so there is no map of the route… So possibly no tracks until Panama.








I’m going to project the photo of the beach on my wall and prostrate myself in front of a fan and a heat lamp. Maybe I can borrow one of those ocean-noise-to-fall-asleep thingamajigs somewhere.
On second thought, that’d be even more depressing than just looking at the pictures here !
Enjoy!
C
Hi James
Karen showed me your website and I have to say, I admire/envy you for what you’re doing. I hope you go all the way and do all you’ve dreamed of doing and more. You’re a beautiful man doing beautiful things. You’ll be most fortunate if you have the opportunity to continue in that direction.
Ryan