Day One – Darién Gap Sailing From Panama to Columbia

Kuna Territory Near Carti, Panama

Kuna Territory Near Carti, Panama

We drove into Panama at night quite exhausted from ~500kms of driving from Uvita, Costa Rica and checked into a $55 hotel in a newer fancier neighbourhood. I was told by the skipper of the boat (Fritz of the boat Fritz-the-Cat) to go to a hostel to follow an 4×4 truck down the Pan-American highway and then 1.5 hours north through the jungle to the semi-autonomous Kuna territory on the coast. I called the Marmallena hostel owner twice and he was rude and seemed to be telling me to come to the hostel at 5am. Since that would mean getting up at 4am I left on my own driving through Panama City at 5:15am 6:15am (my alarm clock was still on Costa Rican time) and watched the sun rise as I drove out of town on the Corredor Sur toll road towards the airport.

Contemplating River Crossing

Contemplating River Crossing

The drive was pleasant with winding hilly rough pavement until the unmarked turn-off into the jungle on a dirt road. I was expecting a really tough slog through muddy jungle roads. I drove fast on the hard-packed mud and slid across the gravel as the road rose steeply and then banked and dropped into deep red-mud hollows. As I rounded one bend I was going to fast and hit gravel while on the wrong side of the road. When a 4×4 appeared on my side of the road the bike fishtailed as I tried to cross the road, slow down, and turn the curve at the same time – earning a honk from the other driver.

Eventually the road came to a fairly wide river of indeterminate depth. I watched three 4×4′s drive through it to judge the depth and best

Kuna's Preparing To Load Bike

Kuna's Preparing To Load Bike

route. It was exciting but didn’t stall so I was proud of myself by the time I slithered up the other bank. A $6 Kuna park entry fee was paid, then I arrived at a gate by the ocean where I was told my very heavy bike required $30 for transit to the catamaran. I negotiated to $25 and my bike was lifted with the help of 4 others into a small fishing boat. We arrived at Fritz’s catamaran where it was winched on board.

Kuna Boy, San Blas

Kuna Boy, San Blas

There are 4 other motorcyclists on the boat – Ben (BMW 1100A), Tom (KLR650), and Mark (Yamaha 250) from the US and Torban (KLR650) from the Netherlands. Three backpackers; Simon (Swiss German), Ernesto (Australia), and Ana-Marie (Finland) were brought an hour after I arrived. Fritz told me I made the best time he had seen and since most of the other bikers fell several times on the road – my ego was boosted.

Kuna Canoe, San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama

Kuna Canoe, San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama

Details on how to cross the Darien Gap with (or without) a motorcycle by sailboat

Panama -Darien Gap Sailing – Day One
30 photos
Kuna Territory Near Carti, Panama
Kuna Territory Near Carti, Panama
Kuna Territory Near Carti, Panama
Kuna Territory Near Carti, Panama
Contemplating River Crossing in Kuna Territory Near Carti, Panama
Contemplating River Crossing in Kuna Territory Near Carti, Panama
Kuna's Preparing To Load Bike, Carti, Panama
Kuna's Preparing To Load Bike, Carti, Panama
Kuna's Preparing To Load Bike, Carti, Panama
Kuna's Preparing To Load Bike, Carti, Panama
Kuna Island, Panama
Kuna Island, Panama
Bike on Fritz-The-Cat, Kuna Territory, Panama
Bike on Fritz-The-Cat, Kuna Territory, Panama
San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Torban, Simon, Ann Marie, San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Torban, Simon, Ann Marie, San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Panama Exit Immigration Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Panama Exit Immigration Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Kuna Fisherman, Kuna Territory, Panama
Kuna Fisherman, Kuna Territory, Panama
San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Kuna boy and Tom, San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Kuna boy and Tom, San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Simon,San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Simon,San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Ann Marie Being Sold Bracelets,San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Ann Marie Being Sold Bracelets,San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Ship,San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Ship,San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
ToiletSan Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
ToiletSan Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Kuna Boy,San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Kuna Boy,San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Kuna Boy,San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Kuna Boy,San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
MarkSan Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
MarkSan Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Kuna BoySan Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Kuna BoySan Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Kuna Girl Cleaning FishSan Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Kuna Girl Cleaning FishSan Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Kuna canoesSan Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Kuna canoesSan Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
San Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Kuna CanoeSan Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
Kuna CanoeSan Blas Island, Kuna Territory, Panama
   


Carti, Panama to Turbo, Columbia

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