After Machu Picchu we returned to Cusco for a night. At the Norton’s (Rat) Pub on the plaza we met Micha, Igor who I met in Medellin and Chessi who I’d been riding with in Equador and Peru. On Saturday morning we left Cusco driving out through the bedraggled end of city and into the Sacred Valley heading towards Puno on Lake Titicaca.
We drove on a high grassland plain which is likely part of the Altiplano. Despite sunny weather we ran into a tiny but fierce rainstorm which produced a good rainbow.
After a stop in a small town with friendly locals and fresh coffee-cake we continued on to Puno, which is on the shores of Lake Titicaca and a stop for tourists travelling by bus between La Paz, Bolivia and Cusco. We arrived at dusk and after checking into the (US-motel style) America Inn we tried to walk up the hill to the mirador before nightfall and failed.
We left Puno at 7am or so planning on making it to La Paz, Bolivia. After about 45 minutes we stopped in Juli to eat our breakfast of empanadas (we were running out of money so out intended lunch became breakfast). A wedding and a large marching band of some sort was taking place in the square.
The border was quite empty on a Sunday afternoon and we checked out of Peru and went across to Bolivia. The policeman on the Bolivian side, after registering my license, asked me what I was going to pay. After I asked what for, I was told a ‘voluntary payment for the cooperation of the frontier police’ or some other nonsense. I raised my eyebrows and said no, this was met with a hard look from the policeman. So I quickly took my documents and left the office and was anxious to get away from the border police.
The customs office at the border was burnt two years ago and still does not process vehicle permits there so we were told to go to the truck bridge outside of town. Unfortunately the officials were on their lunch break and so we waited quite unhappily for an hour or so from the to come back.
We stopped at the ruins at Tihuanaco and wandered about the sites for an hour and a half.
We arrived after a little confusion (due to following the GPS’ directions for the centre) in La Paz. The city itself starts on the high plain and both of us were disappointed while driving in until the road suddenly drops into a huge round depression that contains the majority of the city. The large snow-covered mountain in the distance provides a dramatic backdrop for the densely packed houses and towers of La Paz.
We found a room at the well-known (‘party hostal’) Loki. We were pleased at the time but quickly discovered many reasons why other hostels would likely have been better. We walked about the centre following the Lonely Planet’s walking tour. It passed through the ‘witches market’ which had among other things, some rather gruesome Alpaca foeti.














