After the previous long dusty day riding, Kai and I woke up in Ayacucho undecided whether we should spend a day relaxing (and searching for Alpaca sweaters) in town, or make for the next town. After examining the time Kai has left and the distances we are trying to cover (Machu Pichu, Cusco, Lake Titicaca, and La Paz) we decided we should press on for Cusco and use that as the base for 3-4 days of exploring the Sacred Valley, and Machu Pichu.
The main town between Ayacucho and Cusco is Andahuaylas, 10 hours from both apparently on rough roads. So we packed up and headed out of town at about 10:30am and promptly got lost trying to find the road. Eventually we found a rock and pothole ridden lane winding down to two policemen, one of whom waved me over right away. He was only interested in conversation and told me some convoluted other route that was better – but was quickly disagreed with by the other policeman. After telling me it was a hard route and wishing me luck, we drove at about 15 km/hour overtaking micro-buses trailed by billowing dusk clouds over the awful rocky road. Eventually my front wheel began to rub and squeak probably due to driving over a particularly vicious pothole. After about 2 hours and 50 kms or so we crested the pass to see the (now slightly improved) road wind endlessly back and forth down into a narrow valley backed by much larger craggy mountains.
Fending off vicious dogs by boot has become a common occurrence in Peru and as we passed down the various indigenous settlements there was no limit to the amount of practice both of us got.
Eventually the road wound down to a dry desert-like river canyon and began the climb back up the next mountain range. Kai was beginning to feel quite ill from either the freezing passes, altitude sickness, and or the food.
We then road over a final freezing pass and after a long descent spotted the lights of Andahuaylas glowing in the dusk. After finding a room at the “Adan and Eva” hotel near the center, parking the bike, showering, eating awful pizza, we found out that the road to Cusco was being repaired and would be closed from 7:30am-noon (and would take 1 hour to get to the closure point). So, unhappily, the alarm was set for 5am so we could leave in time to beat the road closure.
Distance: 216 kms
Travel Time: 6 hours, 36 minutes
Road Surface: Ungraded Dirt. Rocky and potholes for first two hours, then some rocky parts, dusty red earth, occasional graded gravel.
Road Width: 1-2 car widths
Traffic: Minimal (few trucks and buses, microbus collectivos between some towns)








Enjoy your time together!
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