I woke up in Sucúa after a night of endless downpour to more rain. My plan to get to Cuenca wasn’t very appealing and indeed I was wet before even leaving town. Driving out of Sucúa the curvy jungle road passed through a small town where I stopped for breakfast and was told that one of the roads to Cuenca was blocked by mudslides. So I took the recommended road (which was well paved) up into the Andes through beautiful green mountains, clouds, and many waterfalls.
I was enjoying myself thoroughly until I came to a large washout where I was warned not to try to cross it. I contemplated for a while, there was about 1/2 foot of fast moving water, 1 meter of rocks and mud, it looked passable possibly but I wasn’t sure I’d get much help from the others if I got stuck.
So with deflated expectations of reaching Cuenca in the early afternoon I wound back down to Mendes to take the other road through Limon to get to Cuenca.
As I arrived in pleasant Limon, totally soaked for the second time today, the curious school-children talked to me about my bike and warned me I might get robbed on the road to Cuenca. As I left town, the near perfect pavement turned to rocks and dirt singletrack and it became cold and rainy as I climbed. At about 3500 meters it leveled off into a high alpine valley of cactus and large lichen-ish plants. Thirsty and tired – it had taken about 4 hours to travel 70kms, I contemplated drinking from one of the waterfalls.
As the road descended and became warmer I changed into dry clothes anticipating arriving for a warm shower in Cuenca. However a new rockslide occurred sometime within an hour before. The small bulldozer wasn’t able to move the boulders so all the traffic was backed up to allow a large front-end digging machine to get to the slide and start knocking the debris over the other side of the road.
After 1 hour of waiting I could finally pass and found heavenly pavement again. I sped to Cuenca arriving at dusk after an 11 hour day of driving. I stayed at the noisy El Cafecito hostal for $6 (+$3 for outside parking) and met Chessi for a few beers at a brewpub. Cuenca is a well-developed (for tourists) colonial town that seems to have the most number of Americans of all the Ecuadorian towns I’ve seen.










must have been wearying , but pretty interesting to read about .
Do you take the childrens warnings as important ?
How is the bike ? Do you notice any change in performance with the altitudes ?
I wasn’t sure how much to trust them – they may have just heard someone was robbed on that road once, or it may have been somewhat common. I didn’t have any other road to take anyway, so either stay another night in the Amazon or get to Cuenca… The bike needs to have the carburettor adjusted – I keep ignoring it but when it gets above 2500m it starts sounding muffled and loses power quite apparently.
Hey James,
I have to admit I am hooked on your blog, and have taken to following you on your travels via an RSS feed. You are doing an amazing job documenting your adventures. Finding your photos stunning and your ‘diary’ extremely compelling. Still a bit in awe how far you have traveled. Your days of sitting in the CiL office writing code must seem like a different lifetime!
Anyhow, thought I should stop “lurking” and send you a quick note to say hi!
Hope you continue to have many inspiring adventures.
~ Jill
Jill, it’s good to hear from you and thanks for the encouragement – it helps when stuck with truckers in the freezing mountains. Yes it does feel miles from being across the desk :), hope all is well with you.