I woke up on Sunday at Hostal Belmont in Quito and rushed to checkout as I was late – the crippled (permanently) and grumpy (frequently) owner was not pleased that Mark and I had returned at about 5am earlier that morning.   Martina  very nicely handled the Easter Sunday breakfast we had planned as I wasn’t in much shape to help very much.   We had painted hard-boiled eggs with which we played a (apparently Austrian or German) game whereby you smash your eggs against the other’s and the last egg un-crushed wins.  As most times when traveling, particularly when alone, you meet people who you get to know quite quickly and well and it’s quite sad to leave not knowing when you’ll see them again. This was the case with Martina and Mark who I’ll miss a lot as I’m going south much faster than they are. Anyway, my plucky egg won – here it is celebrating.

My Victorious Pretty Mud Flower Easter Egg

I then drove south on the Pan-American (again) from Quito but this time headed to Baños.  Baños is billed by the unreliable Lonely Planet as a touristy town that’s appealing anyway. In this case they were right.  I tried to check into the Hostal Plantas Y Blanco – it was full but had expanded to encompass the whole block it seems and was eventually checked into a comfortable room for $9.50 USD.  I parked my bike next to Chesi’s (Canada) – I had no idea he would be there but he was, still with food poisoning.  We agreed to try to meet in Cuenca and drive to Vilacabamba then.

Baños from the mirador, Ecuador

The ride out of Baños in the morning towards Puyo was quite good with a lot of waterfalls through a large canyon. It descends towards  the Amazon Basin which I wanted to see after not really knowing I was in it in Pasto, Colombia.

Baños To Puyo, Ecuador

I stopped at a mirador (lookout point) on the highway between Puyo and Macas to take a picture. I inquired about jugo naturales (fresh juice) and was told that I could have tomate de arbol juice for $2 USD. I declined but then several minutes later, the smiling man came over with a juice which I was told to taste for free.  I tried it and struck up a conversation with him about the beauty of the Amazon lying as far as the eye could see below us. He told me he owned some of the land below and offered to take me on a walk.

Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador

We walked for about 1.5 hours through the jungle. He explained that at 900 feet above see level the jungle wasn’t as dense as below because the nutrients were washed to lower elevations by the frequent downpours.

Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador

He explained that this tree was used by the unclothed indegenous (who live about 100km’s from here) to stop the fertility of their women as they don’t want to many children.   If a woman has too many male children or the couple has had enough children (3-4) then the cut this tree down.

Indigenous Birth Control Tree, Amazon Basin, Ecuador

He was a good and interesting man – he said cilivilization sarcastically when referring to the roads and development that had partially ruined his property and wanted to keep his forest untouched – one part he said was 30 years old second growth and the lower part original jungle.   He related that we as humans were aware of the ability to change for the better but largely were programmed much like all the other animals to be born, grow up, procreate, and die…  We passed a tarantula web that had a complex suspension bridge structure – unfortunately the picture doesn’t do it justice.

Tarantula web, Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador

After another unprompted  juice, he told me that I was the first person he had taken down into his land – I was honoured and it made the day’s trip worthwhile.  I continued tearing through indigenous settlements along the 4 lane wide empty and well-paved road to Macas.  I arrived to stares from the locals at about 5pm and started worrying about a place to stay.  I carried on through a downpour and arrived 18kms later in Sucua where I took a room as the only guest for $10 USD at the comfortable – if a little strange Hotel Athenas.  It continued pouring rain all night.

Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador

A Hive of Activity - Sucúa, Ecuador in the rain.

Quito at Night, Ecuador	Quito at Night, Ecuador	Quito at Night, Ecuador	Easter Dinner, Quito, Ecuador
Baños, Ecuador	Baños, Ecuador	Baños To Puyo, Ecuador	Baños To Puyo, Ecuador
Baños To Puyo, Ecuador	Baños To Puyo, Ecuador	Baños To Puyo, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador
Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador
Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador
Tarantula web, Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador
Sucúa, Ecuador	Sucúa, Ecuador

Quito to Sucas, Ecuador