I spent the weekend in Córdoba, Argentina at the Pochongo Hostel, run by two young brothers. On both Friday and Saturday night their friends showed up and drank Fernet and coke – Córdoba apparently consuming the majority of the world’s supply of the formerly Italian alcohol. This was the most friendly hostel I’ve stayed in for a while – not particularly good as far as hostel’s go but the brothers were relaxed and welcoming in a familial way.
Most northern cities could learn how to make a city more fun for their denizens and tourists alike from Córdoba. The bars were open until 7am and the people were happy and enjoying themselves all over the place – although this seems like something the Argentinians do quite well.
I took one of the brother’s recommendations on the route to San Juan on Monday morning. It was an easy ride initially on pavement through the Carlos Pass tourist town and then was an unpaved barren hilly ride for about 45 minutes. It then went through a series of rough-hewn tunnels (Los Tunnels) and sharply revealed an enormous scrub plain that went to the horizon.
After descending the road was straight for many kilometers which deceptively allowed one to reach 100km/h only to be deep in a skiddy sand-trap every few kilometers or so. After almost losing control (not to mention my lunch which was strapped poorly to the back of my bike) a few times the road alighted on pavement and continued into the vineyards surrounding San Jaun. An overcooked steak was ordered upon arrival in small San Juan. I didn’t even take any photos…
The following morning, after initiating two work projects over a poor Skype connection I decided it was too easy to just drive south on the main road to Mendoza (the ‘real’ wine capital of Argentina). So I drove a bit north in order to catch a winding road through the mountains that came back down to Mendoza. Specifically I had charged my camera for the trip and the first 200 kilometers were quite stunning windy canyon roads with ice-blue glacier rivers, occasional snow peak views, and sweeping cactus plains. The camera battery wasn’t however to be found, so I put myself in a black mood in spite of the scenery.
By the time I got to Barreal and found the camera battery (in my pocket) the scenery had already started to become less exciting. I did however discover with much enthusiam the long-awaited Gauchito Gil. For some reason I have long been fascinated by him – well his moto of Guia mi camino (‘Guide my path’) helped – and I think I had found a shrine, replete with cigarettes and a lounge recliner gifted to him.
The GPS had stopped working as usual and after many hours of dusty rippio (gravel roads) I found myself on pavement and heading along major highway #7 towards Mendoza. I was freezing and managed to get a good photo of a high lake while trying to warm up.








