I don’t think I saw anything at all really of Mendoza.  I drove into it at night and left it in the morning.   I didn’t find the people as friendly as other places in Argentina but I’m sure it was worth at least two nights stay.  However, now that I’ve booked a flight (Buenos Aires to Los Angeles) I have a fixed schedule to adhere to.   That schedule included getting to Valparaiso in Chile.  I was somewhat dreading crossing the Andes again as it’s cold enough in the lowlands of central Argentina at this time of year.

I decided to take the old route to get to the border as I was feeling a bit bored by all this perfect Argentinian pavement and wanted some time in the mountains.  It had lots of good warning signs at the beginning – mostly telling you it was unnecessary to take this route, risky, and the government wasn’t taking any responsibility for your idiotic choice of taking that road. It wasn’t really anything compared to any Bolivian (non-Pan Americana route).

Aconcagua, Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina

It did lead to some views of the southern and western hemispheres highest mountain – Aconcagua, as well as some interesting historical markers (e.g. original communications tower for Chile-Argentine communications).  And views of the now-ubiquitous painted rocks.

Approaching Uspallata, Argentina

After getting near the border I stopped at the so-called Inca Bridge a formation thought to have been created by ice and the mineral rich water run-off.  It’s strikingly ugly.

'Inca Bridge', Mendoza to Santiago Border

I saw two other bikers who later drove over to me and asked me to join them as we headed for the border.  We ended up taking a small detour to the Aconcagua park entrance as well as a trip up to 4,000m along the old Chilean-Argentinian border road (now replaced by a tunnel).

Los Chilenos, Cristo Redeptor, old Chile - Argentinian Border Route

Cristo Redemptor, old Chile - Argentinian Border Line

The border - Chile - Argentina

After a rather extended list of stamps, signatures, and counter-stamps from the Argentinian and Chilean officials (all sitting in a row in the same building behind windows) I managed to get my bike inspected and enter Chile for the second time.  The Chilean road descended abruptly with 26 switchbacks all crawling with trucks.

Chilean Border 26 Switchbacks

I drove through warm! avocado growing lowlands but soon found it getting foggy as I approached Valparaiso on the coast.  Valparaiso is a scandalously grubby, bohemian, and romantic place.  There are small armies of rabid packs of dogs – say a terrier, a labrador, and an oversized poodle, and four mutts accost you with vicious barking or just defecating on most available pavement space.   The narrow long staircases smell like urine and there are lots of areas the locals will tell you are muy peligroso (‘very dangerous’).

Dog in heat, Valparaiso, Chile

Graphisme, Valparaiso, Chile

Good Local Beer

But, it’s moody, poetic, and beautiful as well.  Perfect for walking around, eating in good restaurants, and mulling things over in general.  The city has a number of funiculars to move people up and down the hilly cerros that reach almost to the water. It feels like Havana without the sultry failed resignation or San Francisco without the latte-toting self-importance.  Quiet, arty, and bohemian – it’s a pleasure to visit.

I’m staying at the La Maison Du Filou Galos for 10,000 pesos (~20 USD) and I’m slightly unsettled to read two guest reviews of the place on TripAdvisor accusing the owner of thieving from them.  No such thing has happened to me and I’m quite enjoying the hotel (although guarding my bills) – it suits ‘Valpo’ very well.

Ascensor Cordillera, Valparaiso, Chile

Valparaiso, Chile

Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile

Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina	Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina	Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina	Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina
Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina	Aconcagua, Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina	Aconcagua, Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina	Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina
Approaching Uspallata, Argentina	Approaching Uspallata, Argentina	Approaching Uspallata, Argentina	Approaching Uspallata, Argentina
Approaching Uspallata, Argentina	Approaching Chile, Argentina	'Inca Bridge', Mendoza to Santiago Border	'Inca Bridge', Mendoza to Santiago Border
Aconcagua Near Paso La Liberadores, Argentina	Old Chile – Argentinian Border Route	Bikes on old Chile – Argentinian Border Route
Los Chilenos, Cristo Redeptor, old Chile – Argentinian Border Route	Cristo Redeptor, old Chile – Argentinian Border Route	The border – Chile – Argentina	The border – Chile – Argentina
The border – Chile – Argentina	Chilean Border 26 Switchbacks	Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile	Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile
La Maison Du Filou Galos, Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile	Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile	Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile	Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile
Museo	Ascensor Cordillera, Valparaiso, Chile	Ascensor Cordillera, Valparaiso, Chile	Dog in heat, Valparaiso, Chile
Towards the port, Valparaiso, Chile	Towards the port, Valparaiso, Chile	Towards Concepcion, Valparaiso, Chile	Towards Concepcion, Valparaiso, Chile
Business Center, Valparaiso, Chile	Black Cat, Valparaiso Chile	Valparaiso, Chile	Graphisme, Valparaiso, Chile
Valparaiso, Chile

My GPS power supply on the motorbike wasn’t working again, so the mapping is not complete…

Mendoza to Valparaiso Chile Distance and Altitude Profile

Mendoza, Argentina to Valparaiso, Chile