Salta is a pleasant medium-sized town in Argentina’s northwest where I stayed at the luxurious Sumkama hotel (well after camping and Bolivia it would seem so). I spent most of my time recovering after freezing in the Andes for many weeks. I didn’t really see much of the city as I spent most of my time running about buying motorcycle parts and doing much neglected maintenance on the KLR.
After two nights I lazily got out of town at noon and was driving along the flat boring road until I saw some signs for towns heading into the mountains. So I drove up through the Quebrada de las Flechas (Canyon of Arrows) which was a really pleasant windy drive uphill heading toward the National Park Los Cardones – which contained thousands of tall cacti in an arid landscape with snow-covered mountains behind.
I stopped for lunch in Cachi, a colonial town – pleasantly warm after descending from the 3000m national park. The other pleasant thing is to be eating Argentinian food (well decent espresso, pizza, and any variety of grilled beef) – the culinary torture of Peru/Ecuador/Bolivia is over.
The road turned had become gravel/dust a little way before Cachi and continued this way until about 15k from Cafayate. There was little traffic though so it could be driven as quickly as my motorcycling skills on dirt allow. There were pretty little colonial settlements and friendly people along the route.
The road became more interesting as the sun started to wane – it seems to be a common problem, reaching the best part of the route just when you feel pressed to get somewhere before dark. The ‘painted’ rocks and wild rock formations of the Quebrada de Las Conchas was the best of the drive.
I arrived just as night fell at the Hotel El Balcon (space for the bike in the bike room and 40 pesos or so) in Cafayate – wine growing country. It was a very polished tourist town – wine areas seem to all have the same touristy atmosphere about them – but a pleasant stop.
I spent one night and left late for my marathon drive to Cordoba (737 kms from Cafayate). Leaving town there were vineyards surrounding the famous (to motocyclists) Ruta 40.
I was happily driving through the warm dessert when the road turned to the east and climbed up a pass to about 3000 meters. I was pre-warned about how cold the pass was (I had read Serdar’s (http://www.la2ba.com/) post about it) but not prepared at all – it was foggy, extremely cold and went on longer than one would desire. With frozen, wet hands I stopped after it had descended somewhat and burned my hands against the motorcycle’s engine to try to end the numbness. The pleasant part was when the road dropped below the veil of clouds I was in a lush cloud forest – it seems all the moisture falls before this mountain range – and so Cafayate and the valley are desert-like.
After endless straight and boring kilometers I found myself in bustling Cordoba and checking into the Pochongo Hostal (Obispo Salguero 700 or so, one of my favourites – relaxed and good young owners).

















Hi James,
I’m enjoying following your adventures from a distance and the pictures are amazing. How far are you going? What are you going to do when you get there?
Chantal, good to hear from you. Funnily enough I was just trying to book a flight to Los Angeles just now for May 24th. It’s too cold south of Buenos Aires so i won’t go much farther south. I’m going to Santiago, Chile this week and then a bit of a tour around central Argentina and then to Buenos Aires for a few day before my flight. I’ll be in YVR sometime around the end of the month. How about another (not raw!) chicken dinner? :)
J.