Not For Highway Use, Duro Knobby Tire

Chessi and I got out of Cuenca the following day heading  to Vilcabamba.  The road climbed to about 3500m and kept threatening rain but we kept avoiding it.   Nice views and nice empty winding road as it passed through very dusty and remote towns heading south through Ecuador.   These blowtorched pigs in the process of being scraped made for an entertaining stop – the first time I’ve taken photos of people without asking first.

Blowtorch and Scraped Pigs, Before Loja, Ecuador

The road was dramatic as it descended into a desert canyon and then climbed out the other side – we decided to stage a riding photo – without much success.

Cuenca to Loja, Ecuador

Staged Corner, Above Loja, Ecuador

We arrived at Hotel Izhcayluma where we had a double bed room for $12 USD each. The hotel is more of a resort (with bar, pool table, ping-pong table, restaurant) on the hills overlooking Vilcabamba – highly recommended.   The setting in a valley is beautiful with an excellent climate and both Chessi and I wished we had spent less time in Cuenca and Banos and more time there. The town and people aren’t even spoiled by tourism (yet!).

Main Plaza Vilcabamba, Ecuador

Church Above Vilcabamba, Ecuador

We left Vilcabamba with the best intentions of reaching the Peru-Ecuador border crossing of Las Balsas and beyond to Chachapoyas, Peru (well I did – Chessi was already skeptical we would make it).  When we left town the road quickly degraded with construction projects delaying our way and then climbing into a cloud forest with the requisite rain, mud, giant holes, waterfalls, and washouts.  We passed a touring group of about 5 bikers (possibly German) on Africa Twin bikes. They looked fatigued as they asked about the rest of the road from where we had come.

Leaving Vilcabamba for Zumba, Ecuador

The road descended into a valley and followed the river along dramatically steep sides sun, rain, heat, and humidity.  As I rounded yet another corner to face yet another barking and bike-chasing dog, my back wheel slid out in a deep rut of mud and the dog latched onto my leg and despite wearing thick riding trousers over jeans, punctured the skin on my ankle.  I shook off the dog and furiously yelled at it.  It cowered from Chessi as he rounded the corner behind me.

Muddy towards Zumba, Ecuador

We arrived in Zumba to find it another 1 hour to the Peruvian border at Las Balsas on a crap road that the Lonely Planet said was a 10 minute bus ride. When we arrived at 6pm (about 10 hours motorcycle ride from Vilcabamba) at the Las Balsas border the Ecuadorian border people were apparently playing beach volleyball by the river.  Others appeared and asked me for a cigarette and processed out personal and bike exit papers within minutes.  We then drove across a grass covered bridge into Peru where we were greeted by a slick Peruvian Migracion fellow sporting shorts and a t-shirt.  He did our entry for 90 days and asked for $1 USD each – when Chessi asked he said it was for all the children of Peru.   Then we went to Aduana (customs) for the bike import papers.  This was manned by a deaf old codger who we had to dictate the various pieces of information from our licenses and bike papers.  He took 1 hour to do the paper work – which we ended up filling out ourselves.  He told me to sign the back and after I did told me sternly that if I overstayed my visa the bike belonged to Peru – I laughed and he re-iterated it belonged to Peru.

Aduana Idiot, La Balsa, Peru

We spent the night just across the border in a mostly horrid town of Namballe, where the locals stared and talked about us while we were standing in front of them – the recompense may have been the moldy room and beds for $2.50 USD each.  Determinedly, we left town at 7:50am to get to Chachapoyas (a touristy town in the Eastern Andes of Northeast Peru).  The route took about 10 hours – multiple construction sites after Jaen and 4 hours of drill-like stones and mud beforehand from the Peruvian border.  The highlight was the majestic canyon that exists for 1.5 hours driving before Chachapoyas – unfortunately I was too tired and worried about running out of gasoline (we hadn’t changed enough money) to take pictures – will probably retrace our route to Jaen anyway in two days.

Towards Jaen, Amazon River, Peru

Chachapoyas, Peru

Not For Highway Use, Duro Knobby Tire	Leaving Vilcabamba for Zumba, Ecuador	Cuenca to Loja, Ecuador	Leaving Vilcabamba for Zumba, Ecuador
Cuenca to Loja, Ecuador	Leaving Vilcabamba for Zumba, Ecuador	Cuenca to Loja, Ecuador	Leaving Vilcabamba for Zumba, Ecuador
Cuenca to Loja, Ecuador	Leaving Vilcabamba for Zumba, Ecuador	Cuenca to Loja, Ecuador	Leaving Vilcabamba for Zumba, Ecuador
Blowtorch and Scraped Pigs, Before Loja, Ecuador	Vilcabamba for Zumba, Ecuador	Blowtorch and Scraped Pigs, Before Loja, Ecuador	Muddy Boots towards Zumba, Ecuador
	Muddy towards Zumba, Ecuador	Staged Corner, Above Loja, Ecuador	Muddy towards Zumba, Ecuador
Staged Corner, Above Loja, Ecuador	Muddy towards Zumba, Ecuador	Staged Corner, Above Loja, Ecuador	Muddy towards Zumba, Ecuador
Staged Corner, Above Loja, Ecuador	Muddy towards Zumba, Ecuador	Above Vilcabamba, Ecuador	Muddy towards Zumba, Ecuador
Above Vilcabamba, Ecuador	Towards Zumba, Ecuador	Above Vilcabamba, Ecuador	Towards Zumba, Ecuador
Above Vilcabamba, Ecuador	Towards Zumba, Ecuador	Vilcabamba, Ecuador	Towards Zumba, Ecuador
Vilcabamba, Ecuador	Towards Zumba, Ecuador	Vilcabamba, Ecuador	Towards Zumba, Ecuador
Vilcabamba, Ecuador	Zumba, Ecuador	Vilcabamba, Ecuador	Zumba, Ecuador
Vilcabamba, Ecuador	Above Vilcabamba, Ecuador	Church Above Vilcabamba, Ecuador	Church Above Vilcabamba, Ecuador
Church Above Vilcabamba, Ecuador	Church Above Vilcabamba, Ecuador	Leaving Vilcabamba for Zumba, Ecuador	Church Above Vilcabamba, Ecuador
Zumba Love!, Ecuador	Zumba, Ecuador	Outside Zumba, Ecuador	Outside Zumba, Ecuador
La Balsa, Ecuador Peru Border	Aduana Idiot, La Balsa, Peru	Outside Nambullo, Peru	Towards Jaen, Amazon River, Peru
Towards Jaen, Amazon River, Peru	Towards Jaen, Amazon River, Peru	Towards Jaen, Amazon River, Peru	Construction, Towards, Chachapoyas, Peru
Construction, Towards, Chachapoyas, Peru	Construction, Towards, Chachapoyas, Peru	Construction, Towards, Chachapoyas, Peru	Construction, Towards, Chachapoyas, Peru
Construction, Towards, Chachapoyas, Peru	Construction, Towards, Chachapoyas, Peru	Chachapoyas, Peru

Cuenca to Vilcabamba, Ecuador to Las Balsas and Chachapoyas, Peru GPX Tracks

Above Mendes, Ecuador

Waterfalls Above Mendes, Ecuador

I was enjoying myself thoroughly until I came to a large washout where I was warned not to try to cross it.   I contemplated for a while, there was about 1/2 foot of fast moving water, 1 meter of rocks and mud, it looked passable possibly but I wasn’t sure I’d get much help from the others if I got stuck.

Above Mendes Road Washed Out, Ecuador

So with deflated expectations of reaching Cuenca in the early afternoon I wound back down to Mendes to take the other road through Limon to get to Cuenca.

Returning Down to Mendes, Ecuador

As I arrived in pleasant Limon, totally soaked for the second time today, the curious school-children talked to me about my bike and warned me I might get robbed on the road to Cuenca.   As I left town, the near perfect pavement turned to rocks and dirt singletrack and it became cold and rainy as I climbed.   At about 3500 meters it leveled off into a high alpine valley of cactus and large lichen-ish plants.  Thirsty and tired – it had taken about 4 hours to travel 70kms, I contemplated drinking from one of the waterfalls.

High Alpine Valley - Near the End of Limon to Cuenca Road, Ecuador

As the road descended and became warmer I changed into dry clothes anticipating arriving for a warm shower in Cuenca.  However a new rockslide occurred sometime within an hour before.  The small bulldozer wasn’t able to move the boulders so all the traffic was backed up to allow a large front-end digging machine to get to the slide and start knocking the debris over the other side of the road.

Landslide Sucas to Cuenca, Ecuador

After 1 hour of waiting I could finally pass and found heavenly pavement again.  I sped to Cuenca arriving at dusk after an 11 hour day of driving.   I stayed at the noisy El Cafecito hostal for $6 (+$3 for outside parking) and met Chessi for a few beers at a brewpub.  Cuenca is a well-developed (for tourists) colonial town that seems to have the most number of Americans of all the Ecuadorian towns I’ve seen.

Above Mendes, Ecuador	Above Mendes, Ecuador	Above Mendes, Ecuador	Above Mendes, Ecuador
Above Mendes, Ecuador	Above Mendes, Ecuador	Above Mendes, Ecuador	Above Mendes, Ecuador
Above Mendes, Ecuador	Above Mendes, Ecuador	Above Mendes, Ecuador	Above Mendes, Ecuador
Above Mendes, Ecuador	Above Mendes, Ecuador	Above Mendes, Ecuador	Above Mendes Road Washed Out, Ecuador
Above Mendes Road Washed Out, Ecuador	Sucas to Cuenca, Ecuador	Sucas to Cuenca, Ecuador	Sucas to Cuenca, Ecuador
Sucas to Cuenca, Ecuador	Sucas to Cuenca, Ecuador	Sucas to Cuenca, Ecuador	Sucas to Cuenca, Ecuador
Sucas to Cuenca, Ecuador	Landslide Sucas to Cuenca, Ecuador

Sucua to Cuenca, Ecuador

My Victorious Pretty Mud Flower Easter Egg

I then drove south on the Pan-American (again) from Quito but this time headed to Baños.  Baños is billed by the unreliable Lonely Planet as a touristy town that’s appealing anyway. In this case they were right.  I tried to check into the Hostal Plantas Y Blanco – it was full but had expanded to encompass the whole block it seems and was eventually checked into a comfortable room for $9.50 USD.  I parked my bike next to Chesi’s (Canada) – I had no idea he would be there but he was, still with food poisoning.  We agreed to try to meet in Cuenca and drive to Vilacabamba then.

Baños from the mirador, Ecuador

The ride out of Baños in the morning towards Puyo was quite good with a lot of waterfalls through a large canyon. It descends towards  the Amazon Basin which I wanted to see after not really knowing I was in it in Pasto, Colombia.

Baños To Puyo, Ecuador

I stopped at a mirador (lookout point) on the highway between Puyo and Macas to take a picture. I inquired about jugo naturales (fresh juice) and was told that I could have tomate de arbol juice for $2 USD. I declined but then several minutes later, the smiling man came over with a juice which I was told to taste for free.  I tried it and struck up a conversation with him about the beauty of the Amazon lying as far as the eye could see below us. He told me he owned some of the land below and offered to take me on a walk.

Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador

We walked for about 1.5 hours through the jungle. He explained that at 900 feet above see level the jungle wasn’t as dense as below because the nutrients were washed to lower elevations by the frequent downpours.

Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador

He explained that this tree was used by the unclothed indegenous (who live about 100km’s from here) to stop the fertility of their women as they don’t want to many children.   If a woman has too many male children or the couple has had enough children (3-4) then the cut this tree down.

Indigenous Birth Control Tree, Amazon Basin, Ecuador

He was a good and interesting man – he said cilivilization sarcastically when referring to the roads and development that had partially ruined his property and wanted to keep his forest untouched – one part he said was 30 years old second growth and the lower part original jungle.   He related that we as humans were aware of the ability to change for the better but largely were programmed much like all the other animals to be born, grow up, procreate, and die…  We passed a tarantula web that had a complex suspension bridge structure – unfortunately the picture doesn’t do it justice.

Tarantula web, Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador

After another unprompted  juice, he told me that I was the first person he had taken down into his land – I was honoured and it made the day’s trip worthwhile.  I continued tearing through indigenous settlements along the 4 lane wide empty and well-paved road to Macas.  I arrived to stares from the locals at about 5pm and started worrying about a place to stay.  I carried on through a downpour and arrived 18kms later in Sucua where I took a room as the only guest for $10 USD at the comfortable – if a little strange Hotel Athenas.  It continued pouring rain all night.

Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador

A Hive of Activity - Sucúa, Ecuador in the rain.

Quito at Night, Ecuador	Quito at Night, Ecuador	Quito at Night, Ecuador	Easter Dinner, Quito, Ecuador
Baños, Ecuador	Baños, Ecuador	Baños To Puyo, Ecuador	Baños To Puyo, Ecuador
Baños To Puyo, Ecuador	Baños To Puyo, Ecuador	Baños To Puyo, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador
Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador
Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador
Tarantula web, Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador	Puyo to Macas, Amazon Basin, Ecuador
Sucúa, Ecuador	Sucúa, Ecuador

Quito to Sucas, Ecuador

Above Quito, Ecuador

We stayed at Casa de Cecilia a few blocks up a dirt lane from the central plaza where we camped on a half completed house for two nights.

Easy Camping, Casa de Cecelia, Mindo, Ecuador

On the second day, Daniel (Portsmouth, England) , Chesi and I went to the farthest waterfall outside Mindo – we met Daniel half-way up the hill and I drove him up to the second waterfall.  A short hike down a muddy path gave way to a river and small falls.  We hike farther until we reach a narrow canyon where we were told we could jump off the rock safely into the river below.   I took a bit too much of a jump apparently appearing as if I would land on the other side of the cliff.

Rock Jump, Mindo, Ecuador

Waterfalls, Mindo, Ecuador

On the third morning we woke up to mostly blue skies since arriving and set out to do what we were calling the ‘Medium Loop’ – Mindo to Santo Domingo back to the Pan Americana.  It started raining as we passed through endless construction projects and an accident where a container on a truck crushed a small red car.  We continued on the Pan American south of Quito through the Valley of Volcanos to ride the Quilotoa loop around a few indigenous villages and to see a crater lake.

Volcano on Loop, Ecuador

Mountains on Quilotoa Loop, Ecuador

Mountains on the Quilotoa Loop, Ecuador

We made it as far as Chugchilan     and spent the night at the Cloud Forest Hostel.  The next morning after finding some overpriced fuel from the man known in the village as ‘El Burro’ (the donkey) we drove through the mountains with some good volcano views to Laguna Quilotoa (a lake in an extinct volcano with emerald coloured waters).

Laguna Quilotoa, Ecuador

Chugchilan to Laguna Quilotoa, Ecuador

Then down into the valley and Pan Americana at Latacunga we drove on to the second highest active volcano in the world (according to the advertising) – Cotopaxi which is about 6000m at the summit. I couldn’t face climbing it or the $200 cost for the guided trip to the top.  Motorcycles weren’t allowed into the park although cars were.  Chesi and I parted ways there as I headed back to Quito for the weekend and he was going to Banos.

Laguna Quilotoa to Latacunga, Ecuador

Volcan Cotopaxi, Ecuador

Above Quito, Ecuador	Casa de Cecelia, Mindo, Ecuador	Easy Camping, Casa de Cecelia, Mindo, Ecuador	Chesi, Dragonfly Cafe, Mindo, Ecuador
Exciting Mindo Central, Ecuador	Playing Tarzan, Mindo, Ecuador	Waterfalls,Mindo, Ecuador	Waterfalls, Mindo, Ecuador
Waterfalls, Mindo, Ecuador	River, Mindo, Ecuador	Chesi, Mindo, Ecuador	Mountains on Loop, Ecuador
Mountains on Loop, Ecuador	Mountains on Loop, Ecuador	Mountains on Loop, Ecuador	Chugchilan to Laguna Quilotoa, Ecuador
Chugchilan to Laguna Quilotoa, Ecuador	Chugchilan to Laguna Quilotoa, Ecuador	Chugchilan to Laguna Quilotoa, Ecuador	Laguna Quilotoa, Ecuador
Laguna Quilotoa, Ecuador	Laguna Quilotoa, Ecuador	Laguna Quilotoa, Ecuador	Laguna Quilotoa, Ecuador
Laguna Quilotoa, Ecuador	Laguna Quilotoa, Ecuador	Laguna Quilotoa, Ecuador	Laguna Quilotoa, Ecuador
Laguna Quilotoa to Latacunga, Ecuador	Laguna Quilotoa to Latacunga, Ecuador	Volcan Cotopaxi, Ecuador	Volcan Cotopaxi, Ecuador
Volcan Cotopaxi, Ecuador	Volcan Cotopaxi, Ecuador	Volcan Cotopaxi, Ecuador	Rock Jump, Mindo, Ecuador
Rock Jump, Mindo, Ecuador	Rock Jump, Mindo, Ecuador	Rock Jump, Mindo, Ecuador	Rock Jump, Mindo, Ecuador
Rock Jump, Mindo, Ecuador	Rock Jump, Mindo, Ecuador	Rock Jump, Mindo, Ecuador	Rock Jump, Mindo, Ecuador
Rock Jump, Mindo, Ecuador	Rock Jump, Mindo, Ecuador	Rock Jump, Mindo, Ecuador	Rock Jump, Mindo, Ecuador
Rock Jump, Mindo, Ecuador	Rock Jump, Mindo, Ecuador	Rock Jump, Mindo, Ecuador	Rock Jump, Mindo, Ecuador
Waterfalls, Mindo, Ecuador	Waterfalls, Mindo, Ecuador	Mindo, Ecuador	Mindo, Ecuador
Cloud Forest, Mindo, Ecuador	Unevenly warn rear brakes	Mindo Mountains, Ecuador	Mindo Mountains, Ecuador
Volcano on Loop, Ecuador	Volcano on Loop, Ecuador	Mountains on Loop, Ecuador	Mountains on Loop, Ecuador
Mountains on Loop, Ecuador	Mountains on Loop, Ecuador	Mountains on Loop, Ecuador	Mountains on Loop, Ecuador
Mountains on Loop, Ecuador	Mountains on Loop, Ecuador

Mindo, Quilotoa Loop, Cotopaxi

Las Lajas Cathedral, Ipiales, Colombia

The border crossing was easy, 15 minutes line for immigration and 20 minutes of friendly/relaxed time with the Aduana (bike import permit) and I was driving through much bigger valleys and mountains than in Colombia. I ran into a Canadian couple on KLR650′s who had driven from Argentina in 5 weeks or so.

Ontario Motorcycle Couple Heading North, Ecuador-Colombia Border

Passed within view of the second highest peak in Ecuador, Cayambe at 5,790m.

Cayambe Volcano 5,790m, Ecuador

Driving a bit foolishly fast as I wanted to make it to Quito before it was fully night. Still I had time to stop at the Equator-line and take a touristy picture.

GPS (almost) at the Equator, Ecuador

Equatorial line, Ecuador

Pasto Semana Santa Procession, Colombia	South of Pasto, Colombia	South of Pasto, Colombia	South of Pasto, Colombia
Las Lajas Cathedral, Ipiales, Colombia	Ontario Motorcycle Couple Heading North, Ecuador-Colombia Border	View overlooking valley 90kms before Quito, Ecuador	Cayambe Volcano 5,790m, Ecuador
Canyon en route to Quito, Ecuador	At the Equator, Ecuador	At the Equator, Ecuador	GPS at the Equator, Ecuador
Quito Old Town	Quito Old Town	Quito Old Town	Quito Old Town
Quito Old Town	Quito Old Town	Quito from Secret Garden Roof Terrace	Quito at Night, Ecuador
Above Quito, Ecuador	Above Quito, Ecuador

Pasto to Quito, Ecuador

The drive was all on the Pan-Americana, into tight valleys with some rockfall, big curves and mountains. Loads of cyclists riding from Pasto to Las Lanas church all over the road. Ecuadorian drivers were wilder and faster than the Colombians. Too many SUV’s.