Train North of Reno, NV, USA

This wasn’t however, the way to experience the USA anyway – if anything I had learned on the trip that the fast highways were the least interesting.  My only recountable experience was being stopped by a Montana state trooper for, it transpired, not having a working headlight. Being sure my headlight hadn’t failed I was genuinely surprised, this he took as confirmation of my complicity in contravening said traffic law, giving himself a small smug smirk.  Having dealt with my share of Latin-American policemen it all felt a bit rote and I was quite smugly satisfied myself when I turned the ignition and the faintest glimmer came off the headlight in that bright western-Montana sun.  Seeing that he found this to be a difficult turn of events I immediately launched into a mindless blabber about how the Kawasaki KLR650 stator didn’t produce enough electricity to power a brighter headlight and yes it worried me to to no end, however the upgrade was very expensive…  It was time to change topic and tact, so I introduced the notion of my 40,000 km voyage and with indignation recounted the nine corrupt! police officers I had met.  This was enough to throw him off completely and so after he had asked me enough about this he fumbled something about being careful out there and disconcertedly wandered back to his car.

Lake towards Oregon from Nevada, USA

I awoke on my final day of driving in Battle Creek, Michigan to find my bike had no power. After a return trip to Walmart with a procured battery my bike was ready to go.

the barn after the trip, Ancaster, On, Canada

The trip - excluding the Los Angeles to Vancouver to Toronto portion

	North of Reno, NV, USA	Train North of Reno, NV, USA	Lake towards Oregon from Nevada, USA
Lake towards Oregon from Nevada, USA	Farm equipment en route to Eugene, Oregon, USA	English Bay, Vancouver, BC, Canada	English Bay, Vancouver, BC, Canada
Windy Bridge, Western Washington, USA	Mountains, Montana, USA	Barn, Ancaster, On, Canada	Barn, Ancaster, On, Canada

Distance and Elevation Profile Vancouver, BC to Ancaster, On Across the Northern US

Vancouver to Ancaster, ON

Waterfalls,Yosemite Valley, CA, USA

Yosemite Valley, CA, USA

Waterfalls, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA

As it was getting on in the day we started looking for a campsite (everything was full in Yosemite) on Evergreen Road just north of the park in a national forest, but along the way came across a couple of black bears crossing the road.

Ambling Bear, North of Yosemite, CA, USA

We drove a bit farther and found a ‘lodge’ and gratefully drank some Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and had some fancy burgers.  After asking the waiter about places to sleep he told us that the fire road right around the corner would be fine for free camping. So in the dark and with the bears present in our minds we setup camp.  Camp for Mike wasn’t more than a sleeping bag because of an earlier misunderstanding between us meant that we only had my single-man tent.

The next morning, after breakfast we drove along the 108 through the forest toward the Sonora Pass that a biker yesterday had said was not to be missed.  Mike had to return to Hollister so at Strawberry, CA we went our separate ways.

Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA

The drive from Strawberry, CA to the pass was excellent tight twisty road over little hills along a river and then a steep climb up to about 9000 ft through the snow line.  There was some frozen snow-melt on the road and lots of gravel from the winter clearing which made for a few unpleasant surprises.

Snow bank, Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA-2

The snow is still quite deep up in the mountains but dissipated as the road wound sharply down out of the Sierra’s near the Nevada border.  The highway 395 towards Carson City, NV was a bit desolate and boring so I decided to head back into the mountains on the 89 towards Lake Tahoe, CA.

Nevada, USA Climbing towards Lake Tahoe, CA

The road then became more interesting again and curved along a river through scrub and pine with copper coloured hills and snowy mountain-tops along the sides.  I drove through sprawling South Lake Tahoe and then over another pass and along the flat 395 again to Reno, Nevada.  Reno seems pretty desolate and the difference in money/education is quite distinct from the plush California towns.

Lake Tahoe, CA, USA

Mike, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Waterfalls,Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Waterfalls,Yosemite Valley, CA, USA
Waterfalls,Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Mike, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Waterfalls,Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Yosemite Valley, CA, USA
Half Dome, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Wateralls, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Leaving, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Leaving, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA
Leaving , Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA
, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Waterfalls, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Waterfalls, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Waterfalls, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA
Waterfalls, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Bear, North of Yosemite, CA, USA	Bear, North of Yosemite, CA, USA	Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA
Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA	Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA	Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA	Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA
Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA	Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA	Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA	Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA
Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA	Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA	Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA	Nevada, USA
Toward Lake Tahoe, CA, USA	Toward Lake Tahoe, CA, USA	Lake Tahoe, CA, USA	Lake Tahoe, CA, USA

Distance and Elevation Profile - Yosemite, CA to Reno, NV USA

Gilroy, CA to Reno, NV GPX

Situated beside Beverly Hills, between Sunset Blvd and Santa Monica Blvd, his apartment in ‘WEHO’ offers a fine vantage point to view the well manicured and in bloom gardens while pretty people in expensive cars zoom to and fro.  Seemingly carefree (and underemployed or not in need of employment) casually and fashionably dressed people, mostly younger men, stroll up and down Santa Monica Blvd. fiddling with their mobile phones or eating salads in the cafe’s that line the street gossiping about the passarela.

The weekends’ (at least in the summer) social activity centers around pool parties. On Jay’s suggestion we went to one in the Hollywood Hills above Sunset Blvd on Saturday afternoon. Ostensibly a fundraiser, it was held at a money manager’s house with a fine view of the sprawling county of Los Angeles.  The white house perched on a hill, flanked by a canyon, opened on a pool deck crowded with the shirtless, buff and tanned bodies, vaguely swaying to the loud music.  While actual swimming wasn’t particularly popular, there was a swimsuit ‘fashion show’, and a bad singing performance that mixed a female singer making club music-like vocal wails counterbalanced by  faux-machismo rapping from her male counterpart.  Jay’s friend Brian entertained me with biting commentary about everyone that walked by – just about within earshot…

Pool Party

We finished the evening in Angelino fashion by driving across the vast urban expanse to Venice for tapas.  Jay noted the star of the Mad Men series at the bar next to us.  He like everyone else in the bar was glued to the televisions watching the basketball game.

Venice Beach

Regarding my bike, it arrived as promised at the Continental Airlines cargo terminal at LAX airport. I was given a stack of papers and we drove about 5 minutes to the US customs office. Despite an organized system of take-a-ticket and wait to be called (a relief after Central American border behaviour), and two ‘officers’, it still took 30 minutes to get from #32 to #35.  The bored, professional, Mexican customs agents waiting alongside seemed to be quite familiar with this game.  The border agents would disappear from the windows to their desks and not come back while every two minutes or so another one would walk by the windows and re-stack all the papers that were sitting on the desk.

This should only take 5 but takes 1 hour Paperless US Customs Document

When my number came up the agent was flummoxed by this novelty of a Canadian registered motorbike arriving in the US from Argentina.  It needed an Environmental Protection Agency waiver. I pointed out that I drive it into the US from Canada without such a waiver anytime I want. This did not compute.  So I was given forms that neither she nor I understood how to fill out correctly. I made up half of the information including the waiver number (which I did not have) and  this was all accepted. I happily picked up my bike and drove back to Hollywood.

Near Big Sur, Pacific Coast Highway 1, CA

I left Sunday morning for the drive to meet Mario, Mike, and Rick (the three KLR riders I had met in Guanajuato, MEX months ago) in Hollister, CA.  Driving up the Pacific Coast Highway is pleasant with good views of the ocean, beaches, and mountains – although crowded with slow drivers…

Lighthouse, Pacific Coast Highway 1, CA, USA

Sun Setting, Pacific Coast Highway 1, CA, USA

Jay at the Oompa Loompa Gate, Contienental Cargo, LAX, CA. USA	Bike at LAX,CA. USA	Jay Pool Party, Hollywood, CA, USA	Brian, Pool Party, Hollywood, CA, USA
Pool Party, Hollywood, CA, USA	Pool Party, Hollywood, CA, USA	This should only take 5 but takes 1 hour Paperless US Customs Document	Abott Kinney, Venice, LA, CA, USA
North of LA, California, USA	North of LA, California, USA	Pacific Coast Highway 1, CA, USA	Pacific Coast Highway 1, CA, USA
Pacific Coast Highway 1, CA, USA	Pacific Coast Highway 1, CA, USA	Pacific Coast Highway 1, CA, USA	Pacific Coast Highway 1, CA, USA
Pacific Coast Highway 1, CA, USA	Pacific Coast Highway 1, CA, USA	Pacific Coast Highway 1, CA, USA	Pacific Coast Highway 1, CA, USA

Los Angeles to Gilroy, CA, USA GPX

Sunset Palermo Neighbourhood, Buenos Aires

Of course, being en retard meant that Aduana (customs) were having lunch and nothing would be processed before 2pm.  So I had time to try to hide my clothes and other non-motorcycling-related belongings (clothes, camping equipment, etc, more than half of my luggage for the trip) in my cases in the hopes that the inspector wouldn’t force me to take all of those things with me on my own flight. After disconnecting the battery terminals, lowering the tire pressure, and showing that the fuel tank was almost empty, the Aduana woman spent about 30 seconds looking at my bike (without checking the ID numbers) and then said ‘OK’.

KLR650 on pallet, aduana inspection, Buenos Aires Airport

The bike was then strapped down onto a makeshift wooden pallet, and then covered in loads of shrink-wrap plastic and picked up by a forklift and taken away – it was a big production for my bike which only has sentimental value.  While watching this I was approached by three businessmen who were taking an interest in my activities. It turned out that they run a biofuel business and are motorcyclists themselves.  The president gave me his card after talking to me for a while and asked questions about my fuel usage and said he wants to sponsor me with biofuel if I take another trip.

KLR650 wrapped for shipping, Buenos Aires Airport

Buenos Aires is a seductive city, it does indeed feel more like a European city than any others I’ve been through in the Americas – right down to the sport of trying to dodge dog crap all over the pavement.   I’ve walked an gotten lost in the Palermo area, fought the crowds in microcentro (the center), stayed out all night like the locals (the bars don’t open in many cases until midnight and aren’t full until 3am, closing at 6-9am), and caught impromptu tango in the streets of San Telmo.

Impromptu Tango in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina

And went to the Recoletta neighbourhood cemetery which contains the remains of the richer and more famous Argentines – including Eva Peron.

Recolleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires

I left it yesterday and arrived in Los Angeles, California this morning – it’s a bit of culture shock.

Sunset Palermo Neighbourhood, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	Sunset Palermo Neighbourhood, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires
KLR650 on pallet, Buenos Aires Airport	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	KLR650 on pallet, Buenos Aires Airport	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires
KLR650 wrapped for shipping, Buenos Aires Airport	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	Near San Telmo, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires
San Telmo Cathedral, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	San Telmo Cathedral, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires
San Telmo, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	On Plaza de Mayo, Microcentro, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires
On Plaza de Mayo, Microcentro, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	Eva Peron Memorial, Recoleta, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires
Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	Jim and Ashley, Google Crew, Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires
Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	Good bottle	Obelisk, Microcentro, Buenos Aires, Argentina	Obelisk, Microcentro, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Impromptu Tango in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina	Impromptu Tango in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina	Impromptu Tango in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina	Impromptu Tango in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Impromptu Tango in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina	Impromptu Tango in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina	Impromptu Tango in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina	Impromptu Tango in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina

1. Contact the following person at the agents (Navicon) in order to be given a time/date to show up at the  Buenos Aires International Airport (EZE) Cargo Terminal.  I would suggest showing up in Buenos Aires one week before you want the bike to fly.DOLORES  WOODYATT
   LAVALLE 482 Buenos Aires – Argentina (First Floor of Building)
   NAVICON  S.A.
   Dpto. Exportación Aerea.
   TEL: 5288-1664
   FAX: 5288-1675
2. Drive the bike to the cargo terminal (explaining you are going to ‘Franco’ in Exportaciones). Get there by 10am, otherwise the Aduana will go off for lunch from noon-2pm and you’ll have to wait to get customs clearance for the export.
3. Find Franco and someone will give you an entry to the cargo area paper
4. Drive the bike into the warehouse
5. Remove most of the gasoline from the tank
6. Disconnect the battery terminals
7. Lower the bike height as much as possible (removing mirrors, windshield, and any top-case if it makes a difference).  The width wasn’t important as the pallet the bike will be put on was wider than my KLR650 with two 1550 Pelican side cases on a luggage rack.In my case I left the 1560 Pelican top case on the bike (it was too much work to get in on their in the first place) and it didn’t seem to affect the price of shipping as the front faring is quite high relatively.
   

   KLR650 on pallet, aduana inspection, Buenos Aires Airport

8. You’ll be asked to put the bike on the wooden pallet they build for you. Customs (Aduana) will then show up and inspect the bike.   Franco will tell you the airline/customs want you to only have articles directly related to the motorcycle on the bike (e.g. no clothing other than motorcycle gear, no camping or other things you typically have on this sort of trip).  However I assured him that I didn’t (even though I did have two cases mostly full of clothes and camping gear).  I tried to hide them a bit behind the ‘legitimate’ articles.  The customs lady glanced at my top case and didn’t even look in my side cases and approved the bike for shipping.
   

   KLR650 wrapped for shipping, Buenos Aires Airport

9. They’ll strap down the bike to the pallet and wrap it in thick cling-film plastic sheets.
10. When you finish with the procedures at the airport, the following day you have to go to the Navicon office (at the address in #1 above) in microcentro to pay and get the air way bill. LAVALLE 482 1er Piso – Buenos Aires – ArgentinaThey will tell you how much you have to pay and you will go to the bank beside the office to deposit in the bank account of the company the money (cash only – Pesos or USD).With the ticket of the deposit come back to the office (7th floor office this time) and you’ll be given the Air Way Bill and documents to pick up the bike at your destination.  Apparently you can track progress of the bike on Continental’s web site with the master way bill number at the top of the documents you receive.
11. If you are shipping to the USA then your bike will arrive in Houston by air and then put on a truck for delivery to the final destination – if Continental does have air cargo service to the final location. I was told that it will arrive two days after the flight in Los Angeles – so it takes two flights but no trucking.   I brought the bike on Thursday to the airport and it won’t fly until Tuesday.
12. Costs to fly the KLR650 motorcycle from Buenos Aires (EZE) to Los  Angeles (LAX): $1187 dollars to Navicon and Continental in total. $100 to Sandra at Dakar Motors – I don’t think using Sandra for this was necessary.  The breakdown of the costs (USD) is approximately:$634 to Continental for the flight
    $180 in charges Continental pays and are charged back to you
    $340 to Navicon for the pallet and brokerage.

Snow on the Pass Near Los Andes, Chile

I called Jaime, a geologist I had met in Ollague and we arranged to meet in Bellavista the arty/bar area where Pablo Neruda had had a house.  We ended up drinking some Chillean ‘craft’ beer from some different parts of Chile and then went over to Bar Republica (on Calle Republica) where while listening 80′s music (with some hipster-types) we consumed a fair number of piscolas (pisco and coke – sweet but surprisingly appealing after one).  We ended the night at about 5am in some giant disco that was completely and utterly packed – somewhat fun.

On a Saturday afternoon walk all over the city I caught a glimpse of the Andes from one of the streets.

Andes from Santiago, Chile

On Sunday morning the Paso Los Libertadores had re-opened after snowfall the day before and I was able to get to it. The 5 km long line of trucks was passed on the bike fairly easily however they were only allowing one direction (not mine) through at a time. It took about 2 hours to get through including the usual procedures (check bike and me out of Chile and into Argentina).  I arrived in San Luis – very cold (it was about 3 degrees at night) and exhausted and stayed at the HI San Luis Hostal in an 18 bed dorm room with two others.

Snowy Paso Libertadores, Chile

I managed to get out of town at 9am to make the long drive across the Argentinian Pampa (grasslands where a lot of the cattle is raised).  It was quite boring and was an 800km driving day.  I drove straight to the garage (and 4 beds) at Dakar Motors where I ran into Justin (from California) and Alyssia (of MotoAdventureGal fame).  I was quite happy to run into her as she had crossed into Mexico just before I had and I was impressed that a woman was doing a long moto trip alone.

On the bridge, Buenos Aires

So I have finally arrived in Buenos Aires, the most southerly point on this trip, and it’s with a mixture of pleasure in the anticipation of returning to see people in Canada and disappointment as if this is really the end of the trip and any real adventures I might have.

Clock near the Retiro station, Buenos AIres

Buenos Aires River

Buenos Aires Pedestrian Bridge

Santiago, Chile	Terracotta Warriers Exhibit, Santiago, Chile	Santiago, Chile	Near Los Andes, Chile
Paso Libertadores, Chile	Paso Libertadores, Chile	Paso Libertadores, Chile	Buenos AIres
Buenos AIres	Buenos AIres	Buenos AIres	Buenos AIres
Buenos AIres	Buenos AIres	Dish gloves

My GPS broke again and won’t connect to my computer so I couldn’t get the GPS tracks, but they were very straightforward.

I decided to take the old route to get to the border as I was feeling a bit bored by all this perfect Argentinian pavement and wanted some time in the mountains.  It had lots of good warning signs at the beginning – mostly telling you it was unnecessary to take this route, risky, and the government wasn’t taking any responsibility for your idiotic choice of taking that road. It wasn’t really anything compared to any Bolivian (non-Pan Americana route).

Aconcagua, Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina

It did lead to some views of the southern and western hemispheres highest mountain – Aconcagua, as well as some interesting historical markers (e.g. original communications tower for Chile-Argentine communications).  And views of the now-ubiquitous painted rocks.

Approaching Uspallata, Argentina

After getting near the border I stopped at the so-called Inca Bridge a formation thought to have been created by ice and the mineral rich water run-off.  It’s strikingly ugly.

'Inca Bridge', Mendoza to Santiago Border

I saw two other bikers who later drove over to me and asked me to join them as we headed for the border.  We ended up taking a small detour to the Aconcagua park entrance as well as a trip up to 4,000m along the old Chilean-Argentinian border road (now replaced by a tunnel).

Los Chilenos, Cristo Redeptor, old Chile - Argentinian Border Route

Cristo Redemptor, old Chile - Argentinian Border Line

The border - Chile - Argentina

After a rather extended list of stamps, signatures, and counter-stamps from the Argentinian and Chilean officials (all sitting in a row in the same building behind windows) I managed to get my bike inspected and enter Chile for the second time.  The Chilean road descended abruptly with 26 switchbacks all crawling with trucks.

Chilean Border 26 Switchbacks

I drove through warm! avocado growing lowlands but soon found it getting foggy as I approached Valparaiso on the coast.  Valparaiso is a scandalously grubby, bohemian, and romantic place.  There are small armies of rabid packs of dogs – say a terrier, a labrador, and an oversized poodle, and four mutts accost you with vicious barking or just defecating on most available pavement space.   The narrow long staircases smell like urine and there are lots of areas the locals will tell you are muy peligroso (‘very dangerous’).

Dog in heat, Valparaiso, Chile

Graphisme, Valparaiso, Chile

Good Local Beer

But, it’s moody, poetic, and beautiful as well.  Perfect for walking around, eating in good restaurants, and mulling things over in general.  The city has a number of funiculars to move people up and down the hilly cerros that reach almost to the water. It feels like Havana without the sultry failed resignation or San Francisco without the latte-toting self-importance.  Quiet, arty, and bohemian – it’s a pleasure to visit.

I’m staying at the La Maison Du Filou Galos for 10,000 pesos (~20 USD) and I’m slightly unsettled to read two guest reviews of the place on TripAdvisor accusing the owner of thieving from them.  No such thing has happened to me and I’m quite enjoying the hotel (although guarding my bills) – it suits ‘Valpo’ very well.

Ascensor Cordillera, Valparaiso, Chile

Valparaiso, Chile

Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile

Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina	Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina	Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina	Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina
Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina	Aconcagua, Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina	Aconcagua, Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina	Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina
Approaching Uspallata, Argentina	Approaching Uspallata, Argentina	Approaching Uspallata, Argentina	Approaching Uspallata, Argentina
Approaching Uspallata, Argentina	Approaching Chile, Argentina	'Inca Bridge', Mendoza to Santiago Border	'Inca Bridge', Mendoza to Santiago Border
Aconcagua Near Paso La Liberadores, Argentina	Old Chile – Argentinian Border Route	Bikes on old Chile – Argentinian Border Route
Los Chilenos, Cristo Redeptor, old Chile – Argentinian Border Route	Cristo Redeptor, old Chile – Argentinian Border Route	The border – Chile – Argentina	The border – Chile – Argentina
The border – Chile – Argentina	Chilean Border 26 Switchbacks	Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile	Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile
La Maison Du Filou Galos, Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile	Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile	Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile	Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile
Museo	Ascensor Cordillera, Valparaiso, Chile	Ascensor Cordillera, Valparaiso, Chile	Dog in heat, Valparaiso, Chile
Towards the port, Valparaiso, Chile	Towards the port, Valparaiso, Chile	Towards Concepcion, Valparaiso, Chile	Towards Concepcion, Valparaiso, Chile
Business Center, Valparaiso, Chile	Black Cat, Valparaiso Chile	Valparaiso, Chile	Graphisme, Valparaiso, Chile
Valparaiso, Chile

My GPS power supply on the motorbike wasn’t working again, so the mapping is not complete…

Mendoza to Valparaiso Chile Distance and Altitude Profile

Mendoza, Argentina to Valparaiso, Chile

Most northern cities could learn how to make a city more fun for their denizens and tourists alike from Córdoba. The bars were open until 7am and the people were happy and enjoying themselves all over the place – although this seems like something the Argentinians do quite well.

I took one of the brother’s recommendations on the route to San Juan on Monday morning. It was an easy ride initially on pavement through the Carlos Pass tourist town and then was an unpaved barren hilly ride for about 45 minutes. It then went through a series of rough-hewn tunnels (Los Tunnels) and sharply revealed an enormous scrub plain that went to the horizon.

Great Plain, Cordoba to San Juan, Argentina

After descending the road was straight for many kilometers which deceptively allowed one to reach 100km/h only to be deep in a skiddy sand-trap every few kilometers or so.  After almost losing control (not to mention my lunch which was strapped poorly to the back of my bike) a few times the road alighted on pavement and continued into the vineyards surrounding San Jaun.  An overcooked steak was ordered upon arrival in small San Juan.  I didn’t even take any photos…

The following morning, after initiating two work projects over a poor Skype connection I decided it was too easy to just drive south on the main road to Mendoza (the ‘real’ wine capital of Argentina).  So I drove a bit north in order to catch a winding road through the mountains that came back down to Mendoza.  Specifically I had charged my camera for the trip and the first 200 kilometers were quite stunning windy canyon roads with ice-blue glacier rivers, occasional snow peak views, and sweeping cactus plains.   The camera battery wasn’t however to be found, so I put myself in a black mood in spite of the scenery.

Vines Near San Juan, Argentina

By the time I got to Barreal and found the camera battery (in my pocket) the scenery had already started to become less exciting.  I did however discover with much enthusiam the long-awaited Gauchito Gil.  For some reason I have long been fascinated by him – well his moto of Guia mi camino (‘Guide my path’) helped – and I think I had found a shrine, replete with cigarettes and a lounge recliner gifted to him.

Gauchito Gil Shrine, Near Barreal, Argentina

The GPS had stopped working as usual and after many hours of dusty rippio (gravel roads) I found myself on pavement and heading along major highway #7 towards Mendoza. I was freezing and managed to get a good photo of a high lake while trying to warm up.

Lake from Uspallata to Mendoza, Argentina

Cordoba to San Juan, Argentina Route Distance and Altitude Profile

Cordoba to San Juan, Argentina	Cordoba to San Juan, Argentina	Cordoba to San Juan, Argentina	Vines Near San Juan, Argentina
Vines Near San Juan, Argentina	Annoying Swedish Girl, Cordoba, Ar	Belgian Couple, Cordoba, Ar	'Piedras Pintadas',Berreal, Argentina
Shame about the wires, Berreal, Argentina	Desert and Peaks, Berreal, Argentina	Gauchito Gil Shrine, Near Barreal, Argentina	Near Barreal, Argentina
Gauchito Gil Shrine, Near Barreal, Argentina	Entering Uspallata, Argentina	Leave Uspallata, Argentina	Uspallata to Mendoza, Argentina
Uspallata to Mendoza, Argentina	Lake from Uspallata to Mendoza, Argentina	Lake from Uspallata to Mendoza, Argentina	Lake from Uspallata to Mendoza, Argentina

Cordoba to San Juan to Mendoza, Argentina

Salta Cathedral, Salta, Argentina

After two nights I lazily got out of town at noon and was driving along the flat boring road until I saw some signs for towns heading into the mountains.  So I drove up through the Quebrada de las Flechas (Canyon of Arrows) which was a really pleasant windy drive uphill heading toward the National Park Los Cardones – which contained thousands of tall cacti in an arid landscape with snow-covered mountains behind.

Valley of Arrows, Canyon Outside Salta, Argentina

National Park Los Cardones, Outside Salta, Argentina

I stopped for lunch in Cachi, a colonial town – pleasantly warm after descending from the 3000m national park.   The other pleasant thing is to be eating Argentinian food (well decent espresso, pizza, and any variety of grilled beef) – the culinary torture of Peru/Ecuador/Bolivia is over.

The road turned had become gravel/dust a little way before Cachi and continued this way until about 15k from Cafayate.   There was little traffic though so it could be driven as quickly as my motorcycling skills on dirt allow.   There were pretty little colonial settlements and friendly people along the route.

Small Church, Cachi to Cafayate, Argentina

The road became more interesting as the sun started to wane – it seems to be a common problem, reaching the best part of the route just when you feel pressed to get somewhere before dark.   The ‘painted’ rocks and wild rock formations of the Quebrada de Las Conchas was the best of the drive.

Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina

'Painted Rocks'. Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina

Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina

I arrived just as night fell at the Hotel El Balcon (space for the bike in the bike room and 40 pesos or so) in Cafayate – wine growing country.  It was a very polished tourist town – wine areas seem to all have the same touristy atmosphere about them – but a pleasant stop.

Cafayate Market, Argentina

Salta to Cafayete Distance and Altitude Profile

I spent one night and left late for my marathon drive to Cordoba (737 kms from Cafayate).  Leaving town there were vineyards surrounding the famous (to motocyclists) Ruta 40.

Vineyard on Ruta 40, Cafayate, Argentina

I was happily driving through the warm dessert when the road turned to the east and climbed up a pass to about 3000 meters.  I was pre-warned about how cold the pass was  (I had read Serdar’s (http://www.la2ba.com/) post about it) but not prepared at all – it was foggy, extremely cold and went on longer than one would desire.  With frozen, wet hands I stopped after it had descended somewhat and burned my hands against the motorcycle’s engine to try to end the numbness.  The pleasant part was when the road dropped below the veil of clouds I was in a lush cloud forest – it seems all the moisture falls before this mountain range – and so Cafayate and the valley are desert-like.

Cloud Forest after Tafi del Valle, Argentina

After endless straight and boring kilometers I found myself in bustling Cordoba and checking into the Pochongo Hostal (Obispo Salguero 700 or so, one of my favourites – relaxed and good young owners).

Modern Art Museum, Cordoba, Argentina

Cafayate to Cordoba, Argentina Distance and Elevation Profile

Salta Cathedral, Salta, Argentina	Canyon Outside Salta, Argentina	Canyon Outside Salta, Argentina	Canyon Outside Salta, Argentina
Canyon Outside Salta, Argentina	Canyon Outside Salta, Argentina	Canyon Outside Salta, Argentina	Canyon Outside Salta, Argentina
National Park Los Cardones, Outside Salta, Argentina	National Park Los Cardones, Outside Salta, Argentina	National Park Los Cardones, Outside Salta, Argentina	National Park Los Cardones, Outside Salta, Argentina
National Park Los Cardones, Outside Salta, Argentina	Valley of Arrows, Cachi to Cafayate, Argentina	Valley of Arrows, Cachi to Cafayate, Argentina	Valley of Arrows, Cachi to Cafayate, Argentina
Valley of Arrows, Cachi to Cafayate, Argentina	Valley of Arrows, Cachi to Cafayate, Argentina	Valley of Arrows, Cachi to Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina
Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina
Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina
Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina
'Painted Rocks'. Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	'Painted Rocks'. Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	'Painted Rocks'. Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	'Painted Rocks'. Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina
'Painted Rocks'. Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	'Painted Rocks'. Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	'Painted Rocks'. Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Cafayate Market, Argentina
Cafayate Plaza, Argentina	Vineyard, Cafayate, Argetina	Cloud Forest after Tafi del Valle, Argentina	Cloud Forest after Tafi del Valle, Argentina
Cloud Forest after Tafi del Valle, Argentina	Modern Art Museum, Cordoba, Argentina	Modern Art Museum, Cordoba, Argentina

Salta to Cafayate to Cordoba, Argentina GPX Tracks

After one day of camping at the Pear’s campground in San Pedro De Atacama I went to the border in the morning to cross into Argentina hoping to make it to Salta.  To get there one needs to cross the Jama Pass.  It was closed due to snow on the pass and so after lying around at the customs office waiting for news for an hour I went back to town and set up camp again for the night.  A dutch couple was camping there as well so we passed the evening drinking wine and looking at the stars.

ALMA Observatory Atacama Desert, Chile

The Paso Jama was open the following day and I did the exit formalities with Chile and drove up over the pass. The KLR was chugging quite badly with the altitude even after adjusting the fuel/oxygen dial.   I crawled up the road until there was a fair amount of snow and ice on the hillsides and occasionally on the road.   The pass went on for a long time – about 160kms and reached about 4,820 meters at one point. It was freezing cold and I started to fall asleep – apparently pilot’s need to have oxygen about 10,000 feet – and found myself swerving into the opposing traffic’s lane.

Jama Pass, To Argentina, Chile

There were some deer-like animals drinking from a river on the pass but I was too cold and tired to stop.  After clearing Argentinian custom’s I drove a bit lower and into this valley of interesting rock structures.

Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina

After a lot of driving I ended up in Salta after nightfall and checked into the Hotel Samkama (Buenos Aires Calle 44 or so) for 75 Pesos. After many weeks in the Andes / Altiplano I’m quite relieved to be closer to sea level.

Town outside Susques to Jujuy, Argentina

San Pedro De Atacama Chile to Salta Argentina Distance and Altitude Profile

ALMA Observatory Atacama Desert, Chile	Jama Pass, To Argentina, Chile	Jama Pass, To Argentina, Chile	Jama Pass, To Argentina, Chile
Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina	Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina	Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina	Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina
Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina	Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina	Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina	Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina
Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina	Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina	Bienvenida a Argentina	Canyon outside Susques to Jujuy, Argentina
Town outside Susques to Jujuy, Argentina

San Pedro De Atacama Chile to Salta, Argentina GPX Garmin Track