Waterfalls,Yosemite Valley, CA, USA

Yosemite Valley, CA, USA

Waterfalls, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA

As it was getting on in the day we started looking for a campsite (everything was full in Yosemite) on Evergreen Road just north of the park in a national forest, but along the way came across a couple of black bears crossing the road.

Ambling Bear, North of Yosemite, CA, USA

We drove a bit farther and found a ‘lodge’ and gratefully drank some Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and had some fancy burgers.  After asking the waiter about places to sleep he told us that the fire road right around the corner would be fine for free camping. So in the dark and with the bears present in our minds we setup camp.  Camp for Mike wasn’t more than a sleeping bag because of an earlier misunderstanding between us meant that we only had my single-man tent.

The next morning, after breakfast we drove along the 108 through the forest toward the Sonora Pass that a biker yesterday had said was not to be missed.  Mike had to return to Hollister so at Strawberry, CA we went our separate ways.

Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA

The drive from Strawberry, CA to the pass was excellent tight twisty road over little hills along a river and then a steep climb up to about 9000 ft through the snow line.  There was some frozen snow-melt on the road and lots of gravel from the winter clearing which made for a few unpleasant surprises.

Snow bank, Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA-2

The snow is still quite deep up in the mountains but dissipated as the road wound sharply down out of the Sierra’s near the Nevada border.  The highway 395 towards Carson City, NV was a bit desolate and boring so I decided to head back into the mountains on the 89 towards Lake Tahoe, CA.

Nevada, USA Climbing towards Lake Tahoe, CA

The road then became more interesting again and curved along a river through scrub and pine with copper coloured hills and snowy mountain-tops along the sides.  I drove through sprawling South Lake Tahoe and then over another pass and along the flat 395 again to Reno, Nevada.  Reno seems pretty desolate and the difference in money/education is quite distinct from the plush California towns.

Lake Tahoe, CA, USA

Mike, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Waterfalls,Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Waterfalls,Yosemite Valley, CA, USA
Waterfalls,Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Mike, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Waterfalls,Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Yosemite Valley, CA, USA
Half Dome, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Wateralls, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Leaving, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Leaving, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA
Leaving , Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA
, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Waterfalls, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Waterfalls, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Waterfalls, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA
Waterfalls, Yosemite Valley, CA, USA	Bear, North of Yosemite, CA, USA	Bear, North of Yosemite, CA, USA	Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA
Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA	Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA	Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA	Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA
Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA	Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA	Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA	Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA
Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA	Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA	Sonora Pass, Hwy 108, CA, USA	Nevada, USA
Toward Lake Tahoe, CA, USA	Toward Lake Tahoe, CA, USA	Lake Tahoe, CA, USA	Lake Tahoe, CA, USA

Distance and Elevation Profile - Yosemite, CA to Reno, NV USA

Gilroy, CA to Reno, NV GPX

Sunset Palermo Neighbourhood, Buenos Aires

Of course, being en retard meant that Aduana (customs) were having lunch and nothing would be processed before 2pm.  So I had time to try to hide my clothes and other non-motorcycling-related belongings (clothes, camping equipment, etc, more than half of my luggage for the trip) in my cases in the hopes that the inspector wouldn’t force me to take all of those things with me on my own flight. After disconnecting the battery terminals, lowering the tire pressure, and showing that the fuel tank was almost empty, the Aduana woman spent about 30 seconds looking at my bike (without checking the ID numbers) and then said ‘OK’.

KLR650 on pallet, aduana inspection, Buenos Aires Airport

The bike was then strapped down onto a makeshift wooden pallet, and then covered in loads of shrink-wrap plastic and picked up by a forklift and taken away – it was a big production for my bike which only has sentimental value.  While watching this I was approached by three businessmen who were taking an interest in my activities. It turned out that they run a biofuel business and are motorcyclists themselves.  The president gave me his card after talking to me for a while and asked questions about my fuel usage and said he wants to sponsor me with biofuel if I take another trip.

KLR650 wrapped for shipping, Buenos Aires Airport

Buenos Aires is a seductive city, it does indeed feel more like a European city than any others I’ve been through in the Americas – right down to the sport of trying to dodge dog crap all over the pavement.   I’ve walked an gotten lost in the Palermo area, fought the crowds in microcentro (the center), stayed out all night like the locals (the bars don’t open in many cases until midnight and aren’t full until 3am, closing at 6-9am), and caught impromptu tango in the streets of San Telmo.

Impromptu Tango in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina

And went to the Recoletta neighbourhood cemetery which contains the remains of the richer and more famous Argentines – including Eva Peron.

Recolleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires

I left it yesterday and arrived in Los Angeles, California this morning – it’s a bit of culture shock.

Sunset Palermo Neighbourhood, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	Sunset Palermo Neighbourhood, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires
KLR650 on pallet, Buenos Aires Airport	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	KLR650 on pallet, Buenos Aires Airport	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires
KLR650 wrapped for shipping, Buenos Aires Airport	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	Near San Telmo, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires
San Telmo Cathedral, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	San Telmo Cathedral, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires
San Telmo, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	On Plaza de Mayo, Microcentro, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires
On Plaza de Mayo, Microcentro, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	Eva Peron Memorial, Recoleta, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires
Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	Jim and Ashley, Google Crew, Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires
Recoleta Cemetary, Buenos Aires	Good bottle	Obelisk, Microcentro, Buenos Aires, Argentina	Obelisk, Microcentro, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Impromptu Tango in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina	Impromptu Tango in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina	Impromptu Tango in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina	Impromptu Tango in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Impromptu Tango in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina	Impromptu Tango in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina	Impromptu Tango in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina	Impromptu Tango in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Snow on the Pass Near Los Andes, Chile

I called Jaime, a geologist I had met in Ollague and we arranged to meet in Bellavista the arty/bar area where Pablo Neruda had had a house.  We ended up drinking some Chillean ‘craft’ beer from some different parts of Chile and then went over to Bar Republica (on Calle Republica) where while listening 80′s music (with some hipster-types) we consumed a fair number of piscolas (pisco and coke – sweet but surprisingly appealing after one).  We ended the night at about 5am in some giant disco that was completely and utterly packed – somewhat fun.

On a Saturday afternoon walk all over the city I caught a glimpse of the Andes from one of the streets.

Andes from Santiago, Chile

On Sunday morning the Paso Los Libertadores had re-opened after snowfall the day before and I was able to get to it. The 5 km long line of trucks was passed on the bike fairly easily however they were only allowing one direction (not mine) through at a time. It took about 2 hours to get through including the usual procedures (check bike and me out of Chile and into Argentina).  I arrived in San Luis – very cold (it was about 3 degrees at night) and exhausted and stayed at the HI San Luis Hostal in an 18 bed dorm room with two others.

Snowy Paso Libertadores, Chile

I managed to get out of town at 9am to make the long drive across the Argentinian Pampa (grasslands where a lot of the cattle is raised).  It was quite boring and was an 800km driving day.  I drove straight to the garage (and 4 beds) at Dakar Motors where I ran into Justin (from California) and Alyssia (of MotoAdventureGal fame).  I was quite happy to run into her as she had crossed into Mexico just before I had and I was impressed that a woman was doing a long moto trip alone.

On the bridge, Buenos Aires

So I have finally arrived in Buenos Aires, the most southerly point on this trip, and it’s with a mixture of pleasure in the anticipation of returning to see people in Canada and disappointment as if this is really the end of the trip and any real adventures I might have.

Clock near the Retiro station, Buenos AIres

Buenos Aires River

Buenos Aires Pedestrian Bridge

Santiago, Chile	Terracotta Warriers Exhibit, Santiago, Chile	Santiago, Chile	Near Los Andes, Chile
Paso Libertadores, Chile	Paso Libertadores, Chile	Paso Libertadores, Chile	Buenos AIres
Buenos AIres	Buenos AIres	Buenos AIres	Buenos AIres
Buenos AIres	Buenos AIres	Dish gloves

My GPS broke again and won’t connect to my computer so I couldn’t get the GPS tracks, but they were very straightforward.

I decided to take the old route to get to the border as I was feeling a bit bored by all this perfect Argentinian pavement and wanted some time in the mountains.  It had lots of good warning signs at the beginning – mostly telling you it was unnecessary to take this route, risky, and the government wasn’t taking any responsibility for your idiotic choice of taking that road. It wasn’t really anything compared to any Bolivian (non-Pan Americana route).

Aconcagua, Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina

It did lead to some views of the southern and western hemispheres highest mountain – Aconcagua, as well as some interesting historical markers (e.g. original communications tower for Chile-Argentine communications).  And views of the now-ubiquitous painted rocks.

Approaching Uspallata, Argentina

After getting near the border I stopped at the so-called Inca Bridge a formation thought to have been created by ice and the mineral rich water run-off.  It’s strikingly ugly.

'Inca Bridge', Mendoza to Santiago Border

I saw two other bikers who later drove over to me and asked me to join them as we headed for the border.  We ended up taking a small detour to the Aconcagua park entrance as well as a trip up to 4,000m along the old Chilean-Argentinian border road (now replaced by a tunnel).

Los Chilenos, Cristo Redeptor, old Chile - Argentinian Border Route

Cristo Redemptor, old Chile - Argentinian Border Line

The border - Chile - Argentina

After a rather extended list of stamps, signatures, and counter-stamps from the Argentinian and Chilean officials (all sitting in a row in the same building behind windows) I managed to get my bike inspected and enter Chile for the second time.  The Chilean road descended abruptly with 26 switchbacks all crawling with trucks.

Chilean Border 26 Switchbacks

I drove through warm! avocado growing lowlands but soon found it getting foggy as I approached Valparaiso on the coast.  Valparaiso is a scandalously grubby, bohemian, and romantic place.  There are small armies of rabid packs of dogs – say a terrier, a labrador, and an oversized poodle, and four mutts accost you with vicious barking or just defecating on most available pavement space.   The narrow long staircases smell like urine and there are lots of areas the locals will tell you are muy peligroso (‘very dangerous’).

Dog in heat, Valparaiso, Chile

Graphisme, Valparaiso, Chile

Good Local Beer

But, it’s moody, poetic, and beautiful as well.  Perfect for walking around, eating in good restaurants, and mulling things over in general.  The city has a number of funiculars to move people up and down the hilly cerros that reach almost to the water. It feels like Havana without the sultry failed resignation or San Francisco without the latte-toting self-importance.  Quiet, arty, and bohemian – it’s a pleasure to visit.

I’m staying at the La Maison Du Filou Galos for 10,000 pesos (~20 USD) and I’m slightly unsettled to read two guest reviews of the place on TripAdvisor accusing the owner of thieving from them.  No such thing has happened to me and I’m quite enjoying the hotel (although guarding my bills) – it suits ‘Valpo’ very well.

Ascensor Cordillera, Valparaiso, Chile

Valparaiso, Chile

Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile

Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina	Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina	Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina	Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina
Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina	Aconcagua, Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina	Aconcagua, Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina	Old Route, Mendoza to Uspallata, Argentina
Approaching Uspallata, Argentina	Approaching Uspallata, Argentina	Approaching Uspallata, Argentina	Approaching Uspallata, Argentina
Approaching Uspallata, Argentina	Approaching Chile, Argentina	'Inca Bridge', Mendoza to Santiago Border	'Inca Bridge', Mendoza to Santiago Border
Aconcagua Near Paso La Liberadores, Argentina	Old Chile – Argentinian Border Route	Bikes on old Chile – Argentinian Border Route
Los Chilenos, Cristo Redeptor, old Chile – Argentinian Border Route	Cristo Redeptor, old Chile – Argentinian Border Route	The border – Chile – Argentina	The border – Chile – Argentina
The border – Chile – Argentina	Chilean Border 26 Switchbacks	Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile	Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile
La Maison Du Filou Galos, Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile	Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile	Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile	Cerro Concepción, Valparaiso, Chile
Museo	Ascensor Cordillera, Valparaiso, Chile	Ascensor Cordillera, Valparaiso, Chile	Dog in heat, Valparaiso, Chile
Towards the port, Valparaiso, Chile	Towards the port, Valparaiso, Chile	Towards Concepcion, Valparaiso, Chile	Towards Concepcion, Valparaiso, Chile
Business Center, Valparaiso, Chile	Black Cat, Valparaiso Chile	Valparaiso, Chile	Graphisme, Valparaiso, Chile
Valparaiso, Chile

My GPS power supply on the motorbike wasn’t working again, so the mapping is not complete…

Mendoza to Valparaiso Chile Distance and Altitude Profile

Mendoza, Argentina to Valparaiso, Chile

Most northern cities could learn how to make a city more fun for their denizens and tourists alike from Córdoba. The bars were open until 7am and the people were happy and enjoying themselves all over the place – although this seems like something the Argentinians do quite well.

I took one of the brother’s recommendations on the route to San Juan on Monday morning. It was an easy ride initially on pavement through the Carlos Pass tourist town and then was an unpaved barren hilly ride for about 45 minutes. It then went through a series of rough-hewn tunnels (Los Tunnels) and sharply revealed an enormous scrub plain that went to the horizon.

Great Plain, Cordoba to San Juan, Argentina

After descending the road was straight for many kilometers which deceptively allowed one to reach 100km/h only to be deep in a skiddy sand-trap every few kilometers or so.  After almost losing control (not to mention my lunch which was strapped poorly to the back of my bike) a few times the road alighted on pavement and continued into the vineyards surrounding San Jaun.  An overcooked steak was ordered upon arrival in small San Juan.  I didn’t even take any photos…

The following morning, after initiating two work projects over a poor Skype connection I decided it was too easy to just drive south on the main road to Mendoza (the ‘real’ wine capital of Argentina).  So I drove a bit north in order to catch a winding road through the mountains that came back down to Mendoza.  Specifically I had charged my camera for the trip and the first 200 kilometers were quite stunning windy canyon roads with ice-blue glacier rivers, occasional snow peak views, and sweeping cactus plains.   The camera battery wasn’t however to be found, so I put myself in a black mood in spite of the scenery.

Vines Near San Juan, Argentina

By the time I got to Barreal and found the camera battery (in my pocket) the scenery had already started to become less exciting.  I did however discover with much enthusiam the long-awaited Gauchito Gil.  For some reason I have long been fascinated by him – well his moto of Guia mi camino (‘Guide my path’) helped – and I think I had found a shrine, replete with cigarettes and a lounge recliner gifted to him.

Gauchito Gil Shrine, Near Barreal, Argentina

The GPS had stopped working as usual and after many hours of dusty rippio (gravel roads) I found myself on pavement and heading along major highway #7 towards Mendoza. I was freezing and managed to get a good photo of a high lake while trying to warm up.

Lake from Uspallata to Mendoza, Argentina

Cordoba to San Juan, Argentina Route Distance and Altitude Profile

Cordoba to San Juan, Argentina	Cordoba to San Juan, Argentina	Cordoba to San Juan, Argentina	Vines Near San Juan, Argentina
Vines Near San Juan, Argentina	Annoying Swedish Girl, Cordoba, Ar	Belgian Couple, Cordoba, Ar	'Piedras Pintadas',Berreal, Argentina
Shame about the wires, Berreal, Argentina	Desert and Peaks, Berreal, Argentina	Gauchito Gil Shrine, Near Barreal, Argentina	Near Barreal, Argentina
Gauchito Gil Shrine, Near Barreal, Argentina	Entering Uspallata, Argentina	Leave Uspallata, Argentina	Uspallata to Mendoza, Argentina
Uspallata to Mendoza, Argentina	Lake from Uspallata to Mendoza, Argentina	Lake from Uspallata to Mendoza, Argentina	Lake from Uspallata to Mendoza, Argentina

Cordoba to San Juan to Mendoza, Argentina

Salta Cathedral, Salta, Argentina

After two nights I lazily got out of town at noon and was driving along the flat boring road until I saw some signs for towns heading into the mountains.  So I drove up through the Quebrada de las Flechas (Canyon of Arrows) which was a really pleasant windy drive uphill heading toward the National Park Los Cardones – which contained thousands of tall cacti in an arid landscape with snow-covered mountains behind.

Valley of Arrows, Canyon Outside Salta, Argentina

National Park Los Cardones, Outside Salta, Argentina

I stopped for lunch in Cachi, a colonial town – pleasantly warm after descending from the 3000m national park.   The other pleasant thing is to be eating Argentinian food (well decent espresso, pizza, and any variety of grilled beef) – the culinary torture of Peru/Ecuador/Bolivia is over.

The road turned had become gravel/dust a little way before Cachi and continued this way until about 15k from Cafayate.   There was little traffic though so it could be driven as quickly as my motorcycling skills on dirt allow.   There were pretty little colonial settlements and friendly people along the route.

Small Church, Cachi to Cafayate, Argentina

The road became more interesting as the sun started to wane – it seems to be a common problem, reaching the best part of the route just when you feel pressed to get somewhere before dark.   The ‘painted’ rocks and wild rock formations of the Quebrada de Las Conchas was the best of the drive.

Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina

'Painted Rocks'. Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina

Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina

I arrived just as night fell at the Hotel El Balcon (space for the bike in the bike room and 40 pesos or so) in Cafayate – wine growing country.  It was a very polished tourist town – wine areas seem to all have the same touristy atmosphere about them – but a pleasant stop.

Cafayate Market, Argentina

Salta to Cafayete Distance and Altitude Profile

I spent one night and left late for my marathon drive to Cordoba (737 kms from Cafayate).  Leaving town there were vineyards surrounding the famous (to motocyclists) Ruta 40.

Vineyard on Ruta 40, Cafayate, Argentina

I was happily driving through the warm dessert when the road turned to the east and climbed up a pass to about 3000 meters.  I was pre-warned about how cold the pass was  (I had read Serdar’s (http://www.la2ba.com/) post about it) but not prepared at all – it was foggy, extremely cold and went on longer than one would desire.  With frozen, wet hands I stopped after it had descended somewhat and burned my hands against the motorcycle’s engine to try to end the numbness.  The pleasant part was when the road dropped below the veil of clouds I was in a lush cloud forest – it seems all the moisture falls before this mountain range – and so Cafayate and the valley are desert-like.

Cloud Forest after Tafi del Valle, Argentina

After endless straight and boring kilometers I found myself in bustling Cordoba and checking into the Pochongo Hostal (Obispo Salguero 700 or so, one of my favourites – relaxed and good young owners).

Modern Art Museum, Cordoba, Argentina

Cafayate to Cordoba, Argentina Distance and Elevation Profile

Salta Cathedral, Salta, Argentina	Canyon Outside Salta, Argentina	Canyon Outside Salta, Argentina	Canyon Outside Salta, Argentina
Canyon Outside Salta, Argentina	Canyon Outside Salta, Argentina	Canyon Outside Salta, Argentina	Canyon Outside Salta, Argentina
National Park Los Cardones, Outside Salta, Argentina	National Park Los Cardones, Outside Salta, Argentina	National Park Los Cardones, Outside Salta, Argentina	National Park Los Cardones, Outside Salta, Argentina
National Park Los Cardones, Outside Salta, Argentina	Valley of Arrows, Cachi to Cafayate, Argentina	Valley of Arrows, Cachi to Cafayate, Argentina	Valley of Arrows, Cachi to Cafayate, Argentina
Valley of Arrows, Cachi to Cafayate, Argentina	Valley of Arrows, Cachi to Cafayate, Argentina	Valley of Arrows, Cachi to Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina
Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina
Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina
Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina
'Painted Rocks'. Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	'Painted Rocks'. Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	'Painted Rocks'. Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	'Painted Rocks'. Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina
'Painted Rocks'. Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	'Painted Rocks'. Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	'Painted Rocks'. Quebrada de Cafayate, Approaching Cafayate, Argentina	Cafayate Market, Argentina
Cafayate Plaza, Argentina	Vineyard, Cafayate, Argetina	Cloud Forest after Tafi del Valle, Argentina	Cloud Forest after Tafi del Valle, Argentina
Cloud Forest after Tafi del Valle, Argentina	Modern Art Museum, Cordoba, Argentina	Modern Art Museum, Cordoba, Argentina

Salta to Cafayate to Cordoba, Argentina GPX Tracks

After one day of camping at the Pear’s campground in San Pedro De Atacama I went to the border in the morning to cross into Argentina hoping to make it to Salta.  To get there one needs to cross the Jama Pass.  It was closed due to snow on the pass and so after lying around at the customs office waiting for news for an hour I went back to town and set up camp again for the night.  A dutch couple was camping there as well so we passed the evening drinking wine and looking at the stars.

ALMA Observatory Atacama Desert, Chile

The Paso Jama was open the following day and I did the exit formalities with Chile and drove up over the pass. The KLR was chugging quite badly with the altitude even after adjusting the fuel/oxygen dial.   I crawled up the road until there was a fair amount of snow and ice on the hillsides and occasionally on the road.   The pass went on for a long time – about 160kms and reached about 4,820 meters at one point. It was freezing cold and I started to fall asleep – apparently pilot’s need to have oxygen about 10,000 feet – and found myself swerving into the opposing traffic’s lane.

Jama Pass, To Argentina, Chile

There were some deer-like animals drinking from a river on the pass but I was too cold and tired to stop.  After clearing Argentinian custom’s I drove a bit lower and into this valley of interesting rock structures.

Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina

After a lot of driving I ended up in Salta after nightfall and checked into the Hotel Samkama (Buenos Aires Calle 44 or so) for 75 Pesos. After many weeks in the Andes / Altiplano I’m quite relieved to be closer to sea level.

Town outside Susques to Jujuy, Argentina

San Pedro De Atacama Chile to Salta Argentina Distance and Altitude Profile

ALMA Observatory Atacama Desert, Chile	Jama Pass, To Argentina, Chile	Jama Pass, To Argentina, Chile	Jama Pass, To Argentina, Chile
Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina	Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina	Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina	Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina
Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina	Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina	Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina	Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina
Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina	Rock Valley after Paso Jama, Argentina	Bienvenida a Argentina	Canyon outside Susques to Jujuy, Argentina
Town outside Susques to Jujuy, Argentina

San Pedro De Atacama Chile to Salta, Argentina GPX Garmin Track

Passing Trains, Ollague, Chile

My plan was to leave for the much more tourist-friendly climes of the town of San Pedro De Atacama.  Having only $50 USD  and no bank machine for 200 kms,  I could only stay one more night before running out of money.  As the rain continued to fall through mid-morning with no break in sight, I decided to start my bike. I pressed the button and the starter turns but the engine won’t catch.  Seeing my trouble several of the, by now drunk, miners takes an interest and start yanking out cables under the fuel tank.  My anxiety increases as the belligerently ask each other where that cable came from and how it goes back in.  Finally an older, sober, competent mine surveyor tells me that one of three parts (spark plug cover, ignition control electronic switch, or connecting wires) is wet and starts to help me take off the side covers, seat, and finally fuel tank in order to get to the parts.

Bike Repair, Ollague, Chile

We dry the parts but the engine still doesn’t catch.   So we drain the fuel tank and he disassembles the fuel switch (off/on/reserve) and we discover that it doesn’t seem to allow liquid through.  I then remember that it only operates with the vacuum hose forcing the diaphragm open. So we re-attach everything and then drain the carburetor at his suggestion. It turns out water had entered it and so was blocking the fuel from being absorbed from the tank.  Now with the bike running and many miners taking an interest, they re-attach my front fender with spare wire through the bolt-holes.  Another one applies a missing washer to one of side panels – previously secured by duct tape.   I re-assemble my disabled side-stand kill switch mechanism while a few miners support my bike.

Mine Surveyor and Good Mechanic, Ollague, Chile

By this time it’s 5pm and the miners are telling me to stay another night and that I shouldn’t attempt crossing the snowy passes on the dirt road to San Pedro at this time.   Besides the meat is being cut-up for the parrilla (massive meat barbecue).   So I find myself standing around with 10 miners and 3 geologists (we four are the odd ones out) eating large hunks of meat and drinking wine from the shared bottles in the freezing cold, high in the Altiplano.   Despite one calling me ‘gringo’ (and being chastised by some others) and their initial hostility, I’ve now been accepted by miners as an odd but welcome addition.   The geologists gave me a huge bag of food and offered me a place to stay south of Santiago and wanted to give me money upon finding out I was running out of cash quickly.

When the sun began to set the landscape’s beauty became apparent.  Even the garbage and debris strewn outskirts of the settlement don’t somehow seem so hopeless and wasted as they did in the coastal Peruvian towns with the same mess.  It’s vast, cold, desolate but completely compelling.   I like the people of the settlement all the more for having seen the surroundings after the veil of clouds lifted.

Volcano Ollague, Ollague, Chile

Communication station,Volcano Ollague, Ollague, Chile

Cemetary, Ollague, Chile

Cordillera, Ollague, Chile

Ollague Station, Chile	Bike Repair, Ollague, Chile	Mine Surveyor and Good Mechanic, Ollague, Chile	Volcano Ollague, Ollague, Chile
Volcano Ollague, Ollague, Chile	Outskirts, Ollague, Chile	Ollague, Chile	Ollague, Chile
Volcano Ollague, Ollague, Chile	Volcano Ollague, Ollague, Chile	Bones, Ollague, Chile	Bones, Ollague, Chile
Cordillera, Ollague, Chile	Children Riding, Ollague, Chile	Ollague Skyline, Volcano Ollague, Ollague, Chile	Communication station,Volcano Ollague, Ollague, Chile
Train, Ollague, Chile	Road, Earth, Sand, and Mountains, Ollague, Chile	Cemetary, Ollague, Chile	Cemetary, Ollague, Chile
Cross, Ollague, Chile	Cemetary, Ollague, Chile	Cemetary, Ollague, Chile	Cemetary, Ollague, Chile
Cemetary, Ollague, Chile	Cemetary Entrance, Ollague, Chile	Church, Ollague, Chile	Passing Trains, Ollague, Chile
1 of 2 streets, Ollague, Chile	Ollague Morning, Chile	Ollague Morning, Chile	Ollague Morning, Chile
Ollague Morning, Chile	Ollague to Calama, Chile	Ollague to Calama,	Ollague to Calama,
Oasis of San Pedro De Atacama, Chile

Altiplano Sunset near Oruro, Bolivia

I then made the long, bumpy, and dusty drive to Uyuni.  The thin atmosphere was pressing on my chest and the constant jack-hammering effect of the washboard road surface grated on my nerves but I did see flamingos.

Flamingos, Oruro to Uyuni, Boliva

At about 3pm I rounded one final set of hills and quickly noticed the blindingly white salt flats in the distance.   I decided to not explore them right away as I was planning to drive across them the following day and needed to buy provisions as it’s known to be quite unforgiving and almost everyone only crosses them in 4×4 truck tours.  So I spent the afternoon checking into the rather depressing Hotel Avenida, buying a 20 L petrol container, 4 litters of waters, and putting half of my dinner into a plastic bag for breakfast the next morning.

Confident that I was planning as best I could for a trip through the remote Salar de Uyuni and the Atacama Desert I packed the bike at night and set the borrowed alarm for 5:45 am.  It rang as promised and I packed the final clothes into my cases and stuffed a 2 L bottle of petrol into the spare tire that I’ve been lugging around since Cuenca, Equador and woke the hotel matron to let me and my bike out.  The GPS starting bleating and I discovered a loose connection on the bike wiring – squishing it with my fingers seemed to quiet the Tamagochi.

When I arrived at 6:30 am under light rain at the only proper gas station within 200 kms or so, naturally it was closed. I weighed waiting for it to open but decided that I  could fill my new bright yellow 20 L container in San Juan (one of the two places in which to buy petrol by the bottle in the Salar and Atacama).   The rain had improved the road – no dust from passing vehicles – and more treacherous at the same time as the mud on the side became slippery.   Two buses passed me causing me to move closer to the edge, my back wheel slid down the embankment then as I over-compensated by turning the front wheel it jump back up on the road sliding the other way.  I held the bike upright, barely, much to the amusement of the 4×4 following close behind me.  A few kilometres later I noticed that the 2 L bottle of petrol carelessly loaded earlier had gone flying when the spare tire had turned over and was now hanging beside my side case instead of precariously on my top case.

By 7am I had negotiated which of the multitude of tracks crossing the Salar I should take and was cruising happily along – despite the threatening clouds in all directions except the one I was coming from.   It was then that I noticed that my speedometer never went beyond 55 km/h, it would reflect lower speeds but nothing higher.   Thinking that as long as the odometer was functioning I could still estimate how much fuel I had left I continued, until the speedometer quite unhappily slowly fell to 0 km/h and the odometer ceased to turn.  I gave up and took some photos of the Salt Flats.

Threatening Rain on Salt Piles, Salar De Uyuni, Bolivia

Salt Geometric, Salar De Uyuni, Bolivia

KLR650 Goes Salar (De Uyuni), Bolivia

Death Memorial, Salar De Uyuni, Bolivia

By the time the other side of the salt flat was visible, an uninviting cactus covered barren hill, it was starting to drizzle heavily and the sandwich bag was produced to cover the chirpy yet precious GPS.   As I drove the 30 or so kilometres over sharp rock, washboard bumps, thick sand, or slippery mud it continued to rain but for added pleasure began to snow at times.   I had dropped the bike twice (on the magically slippery mud) and my hands had become red and blue as I looked upon the sad collection of mud houses that constitute San Juan.   Four cups of Nescafe – Extra Fuerte and a long conversation with the fellow working at the lonely hotel revealed that the town only had electricity from 7pm-9pm daily.   He was worried about the impending arrival of 24 hour electricity along with internet and mobile phone service as these would change the village forever.   He claimed that currently without refrigeration they were able to eat as well as they wanted with Quinoa growing and Alpaca grazing the imperceptible desert foliage, that people went to bed early and rose with the sun, and that generally everyone was content.

I was pointed to the wizened old shop-woman on the corner who told me they were out of gasoline but a litre cost $0.90. Confused, I smelled it before helping her pour it out of giant barrel – which spilled down my jacket, and subsequently watched her siphon it expertly into used vegetable oil containers.   She then warned me about my plan to head to Laguna Colorada, saying it was not passable with mud and snow as the route climbs about 5,000 meters.   My fingers numb, gear soaking wet, and with a dawning realization of the remoteness and primitive state of the roads I wavered as this was just the kind of dissuasion I needed.  So instead of my original plan to see the lagoons at the southern border point my shop-woman drew me a map in the mud to the closer Bolivian-Chilean border of Avaroa – Ollague.   I tried to leave but my usually reliable KLR650 stalled each time I put it in gear.  This had happened once or twice in the past two days and I wasn’t worried when it started on the fifth try.

After one hour of slipping around in the freezing mud a strange noise came from the front of the bike and as I nervously looked down the front fender fell off and lay on the wheel.   I strapped it to the two fuel containers and spare tire and then discovered the bike wouldn’t remaining running when in gear at all this time. Figuring out that this was probably the switch that cuts off the power when the sidestand is down, I oiled the switch which didn’t work, and then disabled it entirely and was on my miserable way with the water, mud, and stones now flying up in my face from the front wheel.

Front Fender falls off in a mini-Salar, Bolivia

The scenery improved as the road conditions deteriorated into giant pools of water covering slippery mud.   Some brief moments of respite from the rain showed giant glaciated peaks of some of the highest mountains in the Americas.

Snow Peaks, Nearing Ollague, Chile

Dark Hills, Nearing Ollague, Chile

After passing through some of the water pools the motor coughed and spluttered to a stop and wouldn’t start. I began to get really worried and started looking around at the inhospitable snow dusted hills for what might be an appropriate place to camp.  As I was reading the manual and preparing to remove the fuel tank to look at the spark plug a trio of 4×4′s containing bewildered foreign tourists passed by honking and waving at me.   I waited another five minutes, wondering if I had just seen my last help for the night drive away, and tried the starter and the bike came grumbling to life. I’m not sure if it’s bad fuel, the mud and water now spraying the engine, or a myriad of other possible causes.

Fenderless KLR650 Not Starting in the Mud, San Juan, Bol

After another 40 minutes with the bike stalling occasionally I finally spotted the border and arrived like a dirty alien at the Chilean border to the amusement of the migration policeman.   The ‘short’ and eventful drive from Uyuni to Ollague ended at 5:29 pm – 10 hours and 53 minutes to cover 225 kilometres.

Bienvenida a la Frontera, Ollague, Chile

Uyuni, Bolivia to Ollague, Chile Distance and Elevation Profile

Salar De Uyuni, Bolivia	Altiplano Sunset near Oruro, Bolivia	Altiplano Sunset near Oruro, Bolivia	Oruro to Uyuni, Boliva
Oruro to Uyuni, Boliva	Oruro to Uyuni, Boliva	Flamingos, Oruro to Uyuni, Boliva	Flamingos, Oruro to Uyuni, Boliva
Red Earth, Oruro to Uyuni, Boliva	First Salt Flat View, Uyuni, Boliva	Another KLR650 Photo, Almost at Uyuni, Bolivia	First Salt Flat View, Uyuni, Boliva
Threatening Rain on Salt Piles, Salar De Uyuni, Bolivia	Salt Piles, Salar De Uyuni, Bolivia	KLR650 Goes Salar (De Uyuni), Bolivia	Death Memorial, Salar De Uyuni, Bolivia
Endless Salt, Salar De Uyuni, Bolivia	Salt Hexagons, Salar De Uyuni, Bolivia	Cactus, Near Salar De Uyuni, Bolivia	Mini-Salar en-route to Chile, Bolivia
Wet, Cold, Muddy, Scrub, Bolivia	Front Fender falls off in a mini-Salar, Bolivia	Snowy hills, Bolivia	Fenderless KLR650 Not Starting in the Mud, San Juan, Bol. to Ollague, Chile
Snow Peaks, Nearing Ollague, Chile	Snow Peaks, Nearing Ollague, Chile	Snow Peaks, Nearing Ollague, Chile	Snow Peaks, Nearing Ollague, Chile
Cold-Tired, Nearing Ollague, Chile	Bienvenida a la Frontera, Ollague, Chile

GPX track: Oruro to Salar de Uyuni to Avaroa – Ollague, Chile

Crossing the Salar De Uyuni on a motorcycle or own vehicle, useful links:

• Horizon’s Unlimited Discussion and GPS Coordinates for the Salar and Tourist Sites

• Google Map showing points on the Salar
• Most useful. Garmin GDB file from someone on the H.U. site: Salar Uyuni From HU User.gdb

Sacred Valley Outside Cusco to Puno, Peru

Snow Peaks in Sacred Valley Outside Cusco to Puno, Peru

We drove on a high grassland plain which is likely part of the Altiplano.  Despite sunny weather we ran into a tiny but fierce rainstorm which produced a good rainbow.

Rainbow, Towards Puno from Cusco, Peru

After a stop in a small town with friendly locals and fresh coffee-cake we continued on to Puno, which is on the shores of Lake Titicaca and a stop for tourists travelling by bus between La Paz, Bolivia and Cusco.  We arrived at dusk and after checking into the (US-motel style) America Inn we tried to walk up the hill to the mirador before nightfall and failed.

Sunset at Puno, Peru

Elevation and Distance Profile Cusco to Puno at Lake Titicaca, Peru

We left Puno at 7am or so planning on making it to La Paz, Bolivia.   After about 45 minutes we stopped in Juli to eat our breakfast of empanadas (we were running out of money so out intended lunch became breakfast).  A wedding and a large marching band of some sort was taking place in the square.

Marching in Juli Plaza, Peru

The border was quite empty on a Sunday afternoon and we checked out of  Peru and went across to Bolivia.   The policeman on the Bolivian side, after registering my license, asked me what I was going to pay. After I asked what for, I was told a ‘voluntary payment for the cooperation of the frontier police’ or some other nonsense. I raised my eyebrows and said no, this was met with a hard look from the policeman.  So I quickly took my documents and left the office and was anxious to get away from the border police.

Bolivian - Peruvian Border Bridge on Lake Titicaca

The customs office at the border was burnt two years ago and still does not process vehicle permits there so we were told to go to the truck bridge outside of town.  Unfortunately the officials were on their lunch break and so we waited quite unhappily for an hour or so from the to come back.

We stopped at the ruins at Tihuanaco and wandered about the sites for an hour and a half.

Monolithic Sun Gate, Tiahuanaco Ruins, Bolivia

We arrived after a little confusion (due to following the GPS’ directions for the centre) in La Paz.  The city itself starts on the high plain and both of us were disappointed while driving in until the road suddenly drops into a huge round depression that contains the majority of the city.  The large snow-covered mountain in the distance provides a dramatic backdrop for the densely packed houses and towers of La Paz.

La Paz Dusk, Bolivia

We found a room at the well-known (‘party hostal’) Loki.  We were pleased at the time but quickly discovered many reasons why other hostels would likely have been better.  We walked about the centre following the Lonely Planet’s walking tour.  It passed through the ‘witches market’ which had among other things, some rather gruesome Alpaca foeti.

Arch Creepiness - Alpaca foeti, La Paz, Bolivia

Puno Peru to La Paz Bolivia Elevation and Distance Profile

Pisac, Peru	Pisac, Peru	Pisac, Peru	Pisac, Peru
Sacred Valley Outside Cusco to Puno, Peru	Sacred Valley Outside Cusco to Puno, Peru	Sacred Valley Outside Cusco to Puno, Peru	Sacred Valley Outside Cusco to Puno, Peru
Sacred Valley Outside Cusco to Puno, Peru	Sacred Valley Outside Cusco to Puno, Peru	Sacred Valley Outside Cusco to Puno, Peru	Sacred Valley Outside Cusco to Puno, Peru
Sacred Valley Outside Cusco to Puno, Peru	Sacred Valley Outside Cusco to Puno, Peru	Sacred Valley Outside Cusco to Puno, Peru	Sacred Valley Outside Cusco to Puno, Peru
Sacred Valley Outside Cusco to Puno, Peru	Towards Puno from Cusco, Peru	Towards Puno from Cusco, Peru	Towards Puno from Cusco, Peru
Towards Puno from Cusco, Peru	Rainbow, Towards Puno from Cusco, Peru	Rainbow, Towards Puno from Cusco, Peru	Rainbow, Towards Puno from Cusco, Peru
Sunset Outside Juiata, Peru	Sunset at Puno, Peru	Sunset at Puno, Peru	Juli Plaza, Peru
Juli Plaza, Peru	Marching in Juli Plaza, Peru	Marching in Juli Plaza, Peru	Marching in Juli Plaza, Peru
Juli to Bolivia border, Peru	Bolivian – Peruvian Border Bridge	Bolivian – Peruvian Border Bridge	Bolivian – Peruvian Border Bridge
Bolivian – Peruvian Border Bridge	Monolithic Sun Gate, Tiahuanaco Ruins, Bolivia	Monolithic Sun Gate, Tiahuanaco Ruins, Bolivia	Tiahuanaco Ruins, Bolivia
Tiahuanaco Ruins, Bolivia	Tiahuanaco Ruins, Bolivia	Tiahuanaco Ruins, Bolivia	Tiahuanaco Ruins, Bolivia
Tiahuanaco Ruins, Bolivia	Tiahuanaco Ruins, Bolivia	Tiahuanaco Ruins, Bolivia	Nearing La Paz Bolivia
Nearing La Paz Bolivia	Nearing La Paz Bolivia	La Paz Towers, Bolivia	La Paz Center, Bolivia
From Church in La Paz Center, Bolivia	La Paz Center, Bolivia	Alpaca foeti, La Paz, Bolivia	Alpaca foeti, La Paz, Bolivia
Alpaca foeti, La Paz, Bolivia	La Paz Dusk, Bolivia	La Paz Dusk, Bolivia	La Paz Dusk, Bolivia
La Paz Dusk, Bolivia	La Paz Dusk, Bolivia	La Paz Dusk, Bolivia	La Paz Dusk, Bolivia
La Paz Dusk, Bolivia	La Paz Dusk, Bolivia	Altiplano Near Ururo, Bolivia

Cusco to Puno to La Paz, Bolivia GPX Tracks